XLR Switch

[Sonnie Parker]

I don't think I'll find what I need, but maybe I'm missing something. I'm looking for a remote controlled XLR switch... with a physical IR remote so that I can program it into a macro on my learning remote.

There will be two processors feeding my SVS SB16-Ultra subs, and a switch would keep me from having to run another cable to each sub for the second input on the sub.

I thought about using a reverse splitter where the two sub pre-outs (one from each processor) are feeding into the splitter and then running to the subs. I don't think I would have any issues as long as one processor is off, and may not have any issues with both on, other than the subs receiving multiple signals if both sources are playing simultaneously. However, I'm not sure.

Any ideas on this? I can run cables... but prefer not to.

 

[Kal Rubinson]

Look in the Pro market for these. Coleman is a brand I have used. My 7.1SW switch is the core of my system. Unfortunately, wireless RC is rare.

 

[Sonnie Parker]

I think I'll probably end up running another cable to by front subs only, as the daisy chain running to the rear will still work without having to run cables to those subs. That way I don't have to have another electronic device in the system... and I won't have to get my lazy self up out of my recliner to switch outputs.

 

[VinceHoffman]

I use an ARX RS-1 remote triggered stereo XLR switch to seamlessly switch the front and rear pairs of Submersives between two channel duty and multi-channel duty in our combined use room and a second RS-1 to do the same for my L & R main loudspeakers as my tubed 2 channel preamp does not have a HT bypass switch. I suspect it is exactly what you are looking for @Sonnie.

 

[Sonnie Parker]

I use an ARX RS-1 remote triggered stereo XLR switch to seamlessly switch the front and rear pairs of Submersives between two channel duty and multi-channel duty in our combined use room and a second RS-1 to do the same for my L & R main loudspeakers as my tubed 2 channel preamp does not have a HT bypass switch. I suspect it is exactly what you are looking for @Sonnie.

I did see this, but I was uncertain of how it would work via IR remote control... can you explain how you use it.

 

[VinceHoffman]

Hey @Sonnie, here is a gear list and a few pics to help get your head around my combined 2 channel and multi-channel music and cinema system. As the list below suggests, there is two completely independent audio systems here that only share the left and right fronts and the subwoofers with their associated DSP delay/PEQ unit.

• 2 Channel front-end: Jay's Audio CDT2 Mk2 Transport, PS Audio Direct Stream DAC, Oracle Delphi V/Turbo PS/SME V/Benz LP-S turntable, Coincident Statement Linestage, Foundation Research V5 phono-stage, & JL Audio CR-1 electronic subwoofer crossover
• Multi-Channel Audio front-end: OppoMod UDP-203 (SACD & DVD Audio), Anthem AVM60 pre-processor, & 2x Meridian 557 power amps for Atmos
  Loudspeakers: either 2x or 5x ATC SCM20 ASL Pro II active stand mounts, (for ATMOS/DTS-X media) 4x ceiling mounted ATC SCM12i, augmented by 4x Seaton Submersive HP subwoofers, & Xilica DCP-3060 parametric subwoofer EQ
  Video: OppoMod UDP-203, Apple TV 4k, Xbox One, JVC DLA 990, Isco 3L anamorphic lens on motorized sled, & 105" Seymour-Screen Excellence EN4K acoustically transparent motorized 2.37:1 scope screen.
  

The ARX RS-1 default setting is for the stereo input 1 to automatically pass through to the stereo output. However, when a 12v trigger voltage is applied to the trigger input terminals, the internal relays switch to input 2. In my set up I have a pair of RS-1 switches in parallel. One RS-1 switch handles the switching for the L & R active ATC SCM20 ASL mains and the other, the front and rear Seaton Subwoofer pairs along with the DSP delay and PEQ unit that makes the four subs play well together. The trigger voltage is derived from the Anthem AVM60 when it is switched on.

According to my local hi-end audio repair tech, Dan Santoni of DTS Electronics, the ARX RS-1 was dead simple and with the exception of the DC blocking capacitors, used high quality parts. The relays were broadcast quality and the board mounted XLR jacks are gold plated Amphenols. As I'm a stereotypically obsessive audiophile, my tech removed all the generic DC blocking caps and installed wire jumpers in their place. Dan stated that the caps were unnecessary for consumer hi-fi applications and the folks at ARX confirmed this. My experience with the cap-less RS-1 is that it is completely transparent in use.

 

[Sonnie Parker]

Ahhh... okay, so the 12 volt trigger is what switches the input... I get it. Yep... unless I setup another set of front channel speakers for movies, I'd need two boxes as well... one for the mains and one for the subs. It wouldn't really be a big deal to setup another set of fronts for movies/TV (which is non-critical listening for me), and only use the Classic 9 ESLs for music, which would eliminate a box. I already have separate amps, and would only be sharing the subs.

Very nice setup by the way.

 

[VinceHoffman]

I looked at the pics of your setup @Sonnie. You have already invested in the matching ML stat/hybrid center channel and set up your L & R mains well out into the room audiophile-style. Why would you not simply stick with the your current L & R Mains for both purposes and buy two switches?

 

[Sonnie Parker]

Good point... and that's probably what I'll do. However... I really have my eyeball on the Anthem STR which has HT Bypass... now that I understand the Pi4 and RoPieee better as a Roon bridge. So initially I won't need the switches. Then again, it depends... I could easily change my mind and go the miniDSP SHD route first... or something else.