How many subwoofers are you using in your main system or home theater?

Sonnie Parker said:

Tell as much or as little as you'd like.

How many subs do you use in your main listening room or home theater?
What are the brands?
How are you equalizing your subs?
Do you have plans to add more?

Click to expand...

Main system (immersive) has three subs, all "DIY" (I bought the drivers, designed the cabinets, had them professionally built):
Currently they are:
1) BMS 18N850, 85L closed box designed to look like a cabinet (and with some useful storage)
2) 2x Aurasound NS15-992-4A (both firing into the front wall), 85L closed box designed to look like a cabinet (and with some useful storage)
3) 2x Aurasound NS12-794-4A (dual opposed), 65L closed box designed to serve as an end table.

The current room is 15' x 20' x 8.5' but partly open.

Here's a pic of the two big subs in our old home; they were custom-built to suit that space. (And yes, that was a prized photo with Rosalyn Carter and President Jimmy Carter, may they both RIP, on the mantel/center channel that was commissioned at the same time as the subs.)


A remote located Crown DCI 4|1250N handles Linkwitz Transform and amplification. Dirac Live Bass Control, aka DLBC (Monolith HTP-1) handles system integration.

As for "upgrades," the 18" sub originally used an Aurasound NS18-992-4A. It developed a VC rub (after ca. 15 years of use) and the BMS driver was something I had on hand to plug in. (It was originally intended to be used in a subwoofer for an outdoor theater in our old house.) In truth there's absolutely nothing wrong with the system. I've yet to hear any constraints in extension or output. But... it has about 2/3 the excursion of the Aurasound NS18. So my ego wants not to downgrade. To that end, I ordered a JBL 2288H, which is their latest-greatest Differential Drive supersub--the successor to the mythical 2269H. However, due to supply chain issues I didn't get it for about 6 months. In the interim, I had never stopped looking for an Aurasound NS18, and was eventually able to source a fresh MR18.4. The only difference between NS18-992-4A and MR18.4 is colorway, which is irrelevant to me. It turns out the 2288H shipped same day as I purchased the MR18.4. So I could not cancel the order and now I have both. I have had both for at least 3 months now. But have not decided which to use....

Other systems:
Formal living room (2ch): 3x B&W PV1D + JL Audio E110 + Tymphany LAT-700 in I think 28L closed box with Linkwitz Transform and power from a Powersoft Mezzo 602A. DLBC (Monoprice HTP-1) provides system integration. Upgrades: none planned.

Nearfield/desktop (2ch): JBL Synthesis S2S-EX (stupid ridiculous overkill, but acquired a local trade for something I no longer needed, and it makes a nice almost desktop-height surface to put stuff on) powered by a Powersoft Mezzo 604AD + Paradigm MillenniaSub behind monitor that makes the upper bass response markedly smoother when desk is in standing position. DLBC again provides system integration, but this time from a JBL SDP-55. Upgrades? LOL.

Secondary (2ch): 2x Triad Bronze (Peerless XLS10 in closed box, 250W). This time RoomPerfect (Lyngdorf TDAI 1120) provides system integration.

jhaider said:

Main system (immersive) has three subs, all "DIY" (I bought the drivers, designed the cabinets, had them professionally built):
Currently they are:
1) BMS 18N850, 85L closed box designed to look like a cabinet (and with some useful storage)
2) 2x Aurasound NS15-992-4A (both firing into the front wall), 85L closed box designed to look like a cabinet (and with some useful storage)
3) 2x Aurasound NS12-794-4A (dual opposed), 65L closed box designed to serve as an end table.

The current room is 15' x 20' x 8.5' but partly open.

Here's a pic of the two big subs in our old home; they were custom-built to suit that space. (And yes, that was a prized photo with Rosalyn Carter and President Jimmy Carter, may they both RIP, on the mantel/center channel.)

View attachment 77125
A remote located Crown DCI 4|1250N handles Linkwitz Transform and amplification. Dirac Live Bass Control, aka DLBC (Monolith HTP-1) handles system integration.

As for "upgrades," the 18" sub originally used an Aurasound NS18-992-4A. It developed a VC rub (after ca. 15 years of use) and the BMS driver was something I had on hand to plug in. (It was originally intended to be used in a subwoofer for an outdoor theater in our old house.) In truth there's absolutely nothing wrong with the system. I've yet to hear any constraints in extension or output. But... it has about 2/3 the excursion of the Aurasound NS18. So my ego wants not to downgrade. To that end, I ordered a JBL 2288H, which is their latest-greatest Differential Drive supersub--the successor to the mythical 2269H. However, due to supply chain issues I didn't get it for about 6 months. In the interim, I had never stopped looking for an Aurasound NS18, and was eventually able to source a fresh MR18.4. The only difference between NS18-992-4A and MR18.4 is colorway, which is irrelevant to me. It turns out the 2288H shipped same day as I purchased the MR18.4. So I could not cancel the order and now I have both. I have had both for at least 3 months now. But have not decided which to use....

Other systems:
Formal living room (2ch): 3x B&W PV1D + JL Audio E110 + Tymphany LAT-700 in I think 28L closed box with Linkwitz Transform and power from a Powersoft Mezzo 602A. DLBC (Monoprice HTP-1) provides system integration. Upgrades: none planned.

Nearfield/desktop (2ch): JBL Synthesis S2S-EX (stupid ridiculous overkill, but acquired a local trade for something I no longer needed, and it makes a nice almost desktop-height surface to put stuff on) powered by a Powersoft Mezzo 604AD + Paradigm MillenniaSub behind monitor that makes the upper bass response markedly smoother when desk is in standing position. DLBC again provides system integration, but this time from a JBL SDP-55. Upgrades? LOL.

Secondary (2ch): 2x Triad Bronze (Peerless XLS10 in closed box, 250W). This time RoomPerfect (Lyngdorf TDAI 1120) provides system integration.

Click to expand...

wow, that's a lot of subs, on another note, as I'm not in the US, I find it strange to see tv's mounted so high up, looking at this pic, it would give me a serious neck ache watching tv

jhaider said:

Main system (immersive) has three subs, all "DIY" (I bought the drivers, designed the cabinets, had them professionally built):
Currently they are:
1) BMS 18N850, 85L closed box designed to look like a cabinet (and with some useful storage)
2) 2x Aurasound NS15-992-4A (both firing into the front wall), 85L closed box designed to look like a cabinet (and with some useful storage)
3) 2x Aurasound NS12-794-4A (dual opposed), 65L closed box designed to serve as an end table.

The current room is 15' x 20' x 8.5' but partly open.

Here's a pic of the two big subs in our old home; they were custom-built to suit that space. (And yes, that was a prized photo with Rosalyn Carter and President Jimmy Carter, may they both RIP, on the mantel/center channel.)

View attachment 77125
A remote located Crown DCI 4|1250N handles Linkwitz Transform and amplification. Dirac Live Bass Control, aka DLBC (Monolith HTP-1) handles system integration.

As for "upgrades," the 18" sub originally used an Aurasound NS18-992-4A. It developed a VC rub (after ca. 15 years of use) and the BMS driver was something I had on hand to plug in. (It was originally intended to be used in a subwoofer for an outdoor theater in our old house.) In truth there's absolutely nothing wrong with the system. I've yet to hear any constraints in extension or output. But... it has about 2/3 the excursion of the Aurasound NS18. So my ego wants not to downgrade. To that end, I ordered a JBL 2288H, which is their latest-greatest Differential Drive supersub--the successor to the mythical 2269H. However, due to supply chain issues I didn't get it for about 6 months. In the interim, I had never stopped looking for an Aurasound NS18, and was eventually able to source a fresh MR18.4. The only difference between NS18-992-4A and MR18.4 is colorway, which is irrelevant to me. It turns out the 2288H shipped same day as I purchased the MR18.4. So I could not cancel the order and now I have both. I have had both for at least 3 months now. But have not decided which to use....

Other systems:
Formal living room (2ch): 3x B&W PV1D + JL Audio E110 + Tymphany LAT-700 in I think 28L closed box with Linkwitz Transform and power from a Powersoft Mezzo 602A. DLBC (Monoprice HTP-1) provides system integration. Upgrades: none planned.

Nearfield/desktop (2ch): JBL Synthesis S2S-EX (stupid ridiculous overkill, but acquired a local trade for something I no longer needed, and it makes a nice almost desktop-height surface to put stuff on) powered by a Powersoft Mezzo 604AD + Paradigm MillenniaSub behind monitor that makes the upper bass response markedly smoother when desk is in standing position. DLBC again provides system integration, but this time from a JBL SDP-55. Upgrades? LOL.

Secondary (2ch): 2x Triad Bronze (Peerless XLS10 in closed box, 250W). This time RoomPerfect (Lyngdorf TDAI 1120) provides system integration.

Click to expand...

Love the look... somewhat retro with the wood.

I wasn't much for Carter when he was president, but I certainly admire what he did after his presidency. He was good for the country. May he rest in peace.

Gerry Iaria said:

wow, that's a lot of subs, on another note, as I'm not in the US, I find it strange to see tv's mounted so high up, looking at this pic, it would give me a serious neck ache watching tv

Click to expand...

I would never want the TV lower. Our current home has a blank front wall but the TV is mounted at about the same height as in our old home in that photo.

First, the center channel should be the same loudspeaker as L/R, in the same orientation and the same height. The main flaw in that system was the subtle-but-present mismatch between L/R (JBL 708i) and C (JBL Synthesis SCL-3). I rectified that in the new home by making sure the fireplace was on the side of the family room, so the front could use three correct speakers.

Second, for tweeters to be normal seated ear height (around 42”-45”) that likely means ~50” tall speakers or speaker/stand. Assuming a TV rather than a noisy projector, it has to be higher.

Third, if sitting comfortably to be entertained one is generally not seated ramrod straight. So the TV should be elevated to match the natural neck angle. Also, there are moments you may be watching while standing, ie it’s under two mins to go in the 4th Quarter and Jayden Daniels is marshaling the offense down the field for the go-ahead score. Do you want to be squinting down?

Fourth, if you have younger children, they can play in the whole space between RSP and front wall without risk of knocking into the TV.

lol... @Todd Anderson will like you... Commander fan.

@jhaider, I love your real-world scenario. And the answer to the question is no, you don't want to miss the glory that's surely about to happen! HTTC!



I completely missed this thread... subs are my favorite piece of the home theater equation. I have roughly a 1900 cu ft room. So, medium-small. I currently run four SVS PB 16s placed at the quarter points of the front and back walls. And, I have an Ascedno 32" infrasonic in the center of the rear of the room.

It's a system that definitely has its moments! I'd love to have a truly sealed room at some point. My room has doors that semi-seal. But, I think by most definitions, one would call it a leaky room.

I generally like a very robust low-end house curve. The hotter, the better! Tweaking is always happening!

Sonnie Parker said:

Love the look... somewhat retro with the wood.

I wasn't much for Carter when he was president, but I certainly admire what he did after his presidency. He was good for the country. May he rest in peace.

Click to expand...

The world needs a lot more people with kindness and compassion in their hearts! RIP

Todd Anderson said:

The world needs a lot more people with kindness and compassion in their hearts! RIP

Click to expand...

Amen to that!

I have a wide open basement for my theater, and only two PB-2000 Pro's trying to pressurize it. I have one up front near the TV and one in the back behind where I am sitting. Knowing what it would realistically take to pressurize my space I'm not trying to get that super low "feel it" bass. My budget won't allow that much subwoofer power to happen. I do still have a clean bottom end though, and while it may not go as low as other systems, I get a good thump when needed.

Todd Anderson said:

@jhaider, I love your real-world scenario. And the answer to the question is no, you don't want to miss the glory that's surely about to happen! HTTC!

View attachment 77219

I completely missed this thread... subs are my favorite piece of the home theater equation. I have roughly a 1900 cu ft room. So, medium-small. I currently run four SVS PB 16s placed at the quarter points of the front and back walls. And, I have an Ascedno 32" infrasonic in the center of the rear of the room.

It's a system that definitely has its moments! I'd love to have a truly sealed room at some point. My room has doors that semi-seal. But, I think by most definitions, one would call it a leaky room.

I generally like a very robust low-end house curve. The hotter, the better! Tweaking is always happening!

Click to expand...

Oops.. I didnt catch the cu foot in your post until I opened to comment. I was going to say that your HT room is bigger than my town house.

Todd Anderson said:

The world needs a lot more people with kindness and compassion in their hearts! RIP

Click to expand...

As a Canadian, he earned my respect even when he was in office as I saw immediately in him his humanity. He was one of the very few that practiced what he preached. All politicians in both of our countries would do well to follow in his footsteps. He was the real deal!!

Mike Schramm said:

I have a wide open basement for my theater, and only two PB-2000 Pro's trying to pressurize it. I have one up front near the TV and one in the back behind where I am sitting. Knowing what it would realistically take to pressurize my space I'm not trying to get that super low "feel it" bass. My budget won't allow that much subwoofer power to happen. I do still have a clean bottom end though, and while it may not go as low as other systems, I get a good thump when needed.

Click to expand...

Have you ever thought about running some inexpensive bass shakers from Parts Express?

We could talk through what it would take to install... but it can be done very inexpensively and powered by an AVR that you could basically buy cheap and used secondhand. The AVR option as an amp allows you to properly align the shakers with the rest of your system. Once you get it dialed in, it's really cool!

I just hooked up a pair of SVS 3000 Micro subs yesterday in our dedicated room, which is almost 3900 ft³. After tuning them with Dirac, whoa, Nelly! I was absolutely astounded at how much punch they have. This system is all music, but I could feel it on several songs... even had my chair vibrating. Obviously, it wasn't like my ten 18s, but for 8" drivers, it was impressive, and it sounded really good.

Todd Anderson said:

Have you ever thought about running some inexpensive bass shakers from Parts Express?

We could talk through what it would take to install... but it can be done very inexpensively and powered by an AVR that you could basically buy cheap and used secondhand. The AVR option as an amp allows you to properly align the shakers with the rest of your system. Once you get it dialed in, it's really cool!

Click to expand...

I briefly looked into Butt Kickers, but I didn’t go very far down the rabbit hole. Yes, I am absolutely interested in this, especially after seeing the prices at Parts Express. Would my current AVR be able to drive them since I’m only using 4 of its 9 channels?

I have 2 Speedwoofer 10S one front left and one rear right
In combination with a miniDSP 2x4
My subjective opinion is the bass is ample not amazing.
I have considered upgrade options. Like adding a 3rd or moving to a pair with larger drivers.
My setup space I would characterize as medium sized but its part of a larger open floor plan.
To pressurize the space I would have to move to a setup similar to the Op's which would not pass the happy wife test.
She's still not over moving from bookshelf to tower.
Upgrades I have considered in pairs are RSL's 12s, Klipsch Reference RP-1600S (maybe too big) or HSU ULS-15 MK2

Open spaces are the hardest to tame bass wise. I'm using 3 PSB 12" ported subsonic 6 controlled through a miniDSP2x4HD. Its not perfect but much better than the one I had for several years.

owcraftsman said:

I have 2 Speedwoofer 10S one front left and one rear right
In combination with a miniDSP 2x4
My subjective opinion is the bass is ample not amazing.
I have considered upgrade options. Like adding a 3rd or moving to a pair with larger drivers.
My setup space I would characterize as medium sized but its part of a larger open floor plan.
To pressurize the space I would have to move to a setup similar to the Op's which would not pass the happy wife test.
She's still not over moving from bookshelf to tower.
Upgrades I have considered in pairs are RSL's 12s, Klipsch Reference RP-1600S (maybe too big) or HSU ULS-15 MK2


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That's a beautiful space BTW

3dbinCanada said:

Open spaces are the hardest to tame bass wise. I'm using 3 PSB 12" ported subsonic 6 controlled through a miniDSP2x4HD. Its not perfect but much better than the one I had for several years.

View attachment 77267View attachment 77268

Click to expand...

very nice room you have there, but looks like you could do with a rug in between the chairs and the cabinet to absorb some of that reflection

owcraftsman said:

I have 2 Speedwoofer 10S one front left and one rear right
In combination with a miniDSP 2x4
My subjective opinion is the bass is ample not amazing.
I have considered upgrade options. Like adding a 3rd or moving to a pair with larger drivers.
My setup space I would characterize as medium sized but its part of a larger open floor plan.
To pressurize the space I would have to move to a setup similar to the Op's which would not pass the happy wife test.
She's still not over moving from bookshelf to tower.
Upgrades I have considered in pairs are RSL's 12s, Klipsch Reference RP-1600S (maybe too big) or HSU ULS-15 MK2


View attachment 77264


View attachment 77265

View attachment 77266

Click to expand...

I like your room, but as you say it is quite large for 2 small subs, maybe add more, wife permitting

Mike Schramm said:

I briefly looked into Butt Kickers, but I didn’t go very far down the rabbit hole. Yes, I am absolutely interested in this, especially after seeing the prices at Parts Express. Would my current AVR be able to drive them since I’m only using 4 of its 9 channels?

Click to expand...

Hey @Mike Schramm ... just because shakers are a bit off topic, I started a thread: https://www.avnirvana.com/threads/bass-shakers-on-the-cheap.14580/

I have built two subs using BMS 12S 330 12in drivers 600W. Each box is tuned to 32Hz in a reflex enclosure. The subs are driven by Hypex FA501 FusionAmp Plate Amplifier (500W).

My dedicated HF/HT room is 16x13x8 ft fully acoustically treated. For measurements I use REW and for the EQ Hypex filter DSP.

The subs are placed in the corners behind the main speakers which is not ideal.

Subs work perfectly for my HT with bangs end explosions. But for the stereo I could not find good EQ. The room modes are always predominant and peak is around 40-50Hz. If I tried to tame it, I spoil the freq response. The best I could do is +/- 15dB, and I am not happy with the results. The main speakers are TL with good bass response.

So I use subs only for HT.

Sonnie Parker said:

Tell as much or as little as you'd like.

How many subs do you use in your main listening room or home theater?
What are the brands?
How are you equalizing your subs?
Do you have plans to add more?

I'm currently satisfied with my setup of two JTR 4000ULF-TL Captivators + six 2400 Captivators. I'm using the two 4000 units with dual 18s as my main subwoofers, and the other six are support subs using Dirac Live ART.

22,400 watts powering ten 18-inch subs in a 19.5ft x 23.5ft x 8.5ft fully sealed room.

Click to expand...

There are some really impressive systems in this list. My subwoofer system is the best I’ve ever heard, because I haven’t heard yours!

I have a dedicated “movie/tv” room on the 2nd floor.

The room is 22’ x 16’ x 8’. The room has a guest room door rear-center, an attic access door and closet door in the right front corner, and the rooms entry is a double/French door in the rear right corner.

I’m running three subs:
- (2) Power Sound Audio V1500 (15” ported)
- (1) Power Sound Audio EV1813M (18” ported)
Positioned in the front corners and rear left corner.

Controlled via MiniDSP 2x4HD calibrated via Multi-Sub Optimizer.

KEF R3 Meta & R6 Meta crossed over at 100 Hz.
Surrounds are in-wall Revel;
Height speakers are in-ceiling Monitor Audio;

TV is floor mounted LG 77” OLED floating just above a credenza.

I’m currently working on upgrading my acoustic room treatments.



This is subs-only from left seat (only normally use two seats), no smoothing in this graph.

Here's a question for those of you using REW and a miniDSP or similar device.. Do you EQ your subs flat or do you use a Harmon curve, the output level drop from 30Hz to 80 Hz by 10db. I've been using them and find the sound very natural, not bass heavy at all. I use it for both HT and 2 channel applications. I tend to bump the levels on the AVR for HT cause I love good vibrations

Pretty much this B&K curve only centered around 75dB @ 2kHz... +3dB @ 20Hz to -3dB @ 20kHz... The new sub ranges from 20Hz to ~52Hz as the mains go down to 42Hz... To this basic DRC, using the HangLoose Convolver, I usually add some additional EQ and color, to taste, in the lows and the highs/air with an emulation of an old skool tube mastering parametric equalizer...

3dbinCanada said:

Here's a question for those of you using REW and a miniDSP or similar device.. Do you EQ your subs flat or do you use a Harmon curve, the output level drop from 30Hz to 80 Hz by 10db. I've been using them and find the sound very natural, not bass heavy at all. I use it for both HT and 2 channel applications. I tend to bump the levels on the AVR for HT cause I love good vibrations

Click to expand...

I use Multi Sub Optimizer to flatten all of the subs together. There is a learning curve but in the latest version, much of the import operation has been automated and the defaults that Andy has selected work pretty well to start.

In that process, I use 8 PEQ’s in the input section leaving two open. Then, I use one or both of the remaining all-band PEQ’s to apply my own “house curve”.

I did the Floyd Toole low end recommended LF Shelf. I set that to a MiniDSP preset and then I created 3 more that are way more aggressive. I use the MiniDSP remote to select a preset as needed.