1st attempt using the auto eq

[NBPK402]

Today I tried the auto eq, and in the beginning it didnt like my levels...so I kept lowering them until I had 80db. I then went through the process of the EQ, and ended up with this result from my MLP. With my old tune I was going past 10k before it started dropping. Auto tune def gave me more 20hz though, by about 10db! Now one thing I did is I ran REW the first time with all my presets blanked on the Xilica xp4080 and i never set and crossover. So I am assuming REW just EQd it to be +-5db, but as you can see it did not do enough to get me to 20khz. Should i raise the gain on the horn and rerun it to get it to extend more on the top end? I will hopefully have my new F20 subs in the next week or two and was planning on rerunning REW anyway. Ultimately I would like to have it 20hz-20khz as flat as possible to a curve with a gentle down slope from 20HZ to 20khz.

 

[John Mulcahy]

You may wish to be quite conservative when it comes to applying EQ above the bass range. The overall response shape of a measurement is a combination of the direct sound and the reflections from the room's surfaces. Our hearing separates those contributions in a way that a measurement does not. Making EQ changes affects the direct sound of the speaker as well as the overall measured result, it can be detrimental to make changes above the bass range unless it is to correct a known deficiency in the speaker's anechoic response. EQ is best applied to counter the low frequency modal effects of the space to prevent them overwhelming the underlying response of the speaker.

The overall trend of the response will depend on the polar radiation pattern of your speaker, the absorption characteristics of your room and how far your listening position is from the speakers. It is an outcome of those characteristics rather than a target to be achieved. Outside the bass range EQ is basically a tone control, nothing wrong with adjusting to your personal preference but it is wrong to think the overall response must have a specific shape or trend.

 

[NBPK402]

This all started when I changed my woofers to a different brand and I got a huge hump. I did some changes to lower it, but always have felt something was not right. I was told to try the auto eq to fix it. I reset all my crossover settings to zero and made a new save in the xilica. Then I ran REW auto EQ (with my room parameters input to), set my MLP up at 12', and ran it. Prior to doing this my HF was fine with it dropping around 15khz..

So if I understand you correctly...I can leave my crossover settings the way they were before and then do the auto eq from 500hz down to 20hz?

 

[John Mulcahy]

Sure, nothing to lose by trying that.

 

[NBPK402]

Today I set my crossovers with a butterworth 500hz 6 db, and then I did a few others to get the big ones down at the inputs filter on the Xilica. Then I ran EQ tune several times and finalized with this. These are at 1 meter from the horn mouth. Red is the right and blue is the left. The left is the one I did first and for some reason took the least number of filters. Pic is with 1/3.

 

[JStewart]

Today I set my crossovers with a butterworth 500hz 6 db, and then I did a few others to get the big ones down at the inputs filter on the Xilica. Then I ran EQ tune several times and finalized with this. These are at 1 meter from the horn mouth. Red is the right and blue is the left. The left is the one I did first and for some reason took the least number of filters. Pic is with 1/3.

View attachment 60759

Any idea why the output is about 2dB different between the two?

 

[NBPK402]

Any idea why the output is about 2dB different between the two?

It might be because I stopped after the left channel and then ran from the MLP (I had to switch the mic cal and calibrate again changing the gain due to the distance. So before i ran the right I tried running REW again and adjusting the volume to match the original left and it came out perfect, but when I went to tune the right channel it was displaying t a little different. I will fix it in a few weeks when we have to retune for the F20 subs. Hopefully I can get it even flatter. I can tell you this... I thought it was sounding pretty good before, but now the vocals have gotten even clearer and I am once again hearing more things that are minute that i never heard before. I also have notice a much better clarity with guitars.

When we get the F20s, I am going to remove the horns from the cabinets and see how they mate up with the subs under them without a cabinet. I tried this when I first made them and liked it but it lacked a little bass...now I can see if the F20s will make it work out. I def would prefer to have my mini MEHs cabinet less. if the subs work out like i think they will.

 

[ddude003]

That looks pretty good @NBPK402... Are you still looking at tossing a house curve on there?

 

[NBPK402]

That looks pretty good @NBPK402... Are you still looking at tossing a house curve on there?

If I do aa house curve it will be after I get the subs and then I will do it in Dirac.

 

[MediumRare]

Any reason you chose 1/3 smoothing? Let’s see 1/12 or psychoacoustic.

 

[ddude003]

@ManCave11 See https://www.roomeqwizard.com/help/help_en-GB/html/spectrum.html

If that's not what you want then try posting over in the appropriate threat at https://www.avnirvana.com/threads/v5-20-14-early-access-build.11154/

 

[NBPK402]

I use was told a long time ago 1/3 is preferred...recently I was told for Autotune to use psychoacoustic, and when I did it was virtually identical to 1/3. Last night I messed with the settings a bit, and today i found out that I had not saved the new settings. I will be running it again today and will post up how that goes this time...hopefully I can get it at least as good as I had it before.

 

[skid00]

I use was told a long time ago 1/3 is preferred...recently I was told for Autotune to use psychoacoustic, and when I did it was virtually identical to 1/3. Last night I messed with the settings a bit, and today i found out that I had not saved the new settings. I will be running it again today and will post up how that goes this time...hopefully I can get it at least as good as I had it before.

You really need to use psycho, or 1/12, or 1/24. 1/3 hides way too much variation. REW EQ generation is documented for using psycho.

 

[Lowclock]

You really need to use psycho, or 1/12, or 1/24. 1/3 hides way too much variation. REW EQ generation is documented for using psycho.

Is it? The documentation says "Variable smoothing is recommended for responses that are to be equalised." Though now I am curious what combination of smoothing and FDW people like when doing corrections.

 

[NBPK402]

Last night I did a bit of tweeking and did not like it, and apparently did not save it to a new preset before tweeking it.I decided to see if i could get it better and started from scratch again. I had my left and right done and somehow when I was doing the center it went a different way and it gave me a boost @20Hz. Well since it was giving me more bass on the center and cutting the left and right bass... I went in and played with it again and got the left channel done, and then I lost my connection in the Xilica before I could save it. It appears to be good as my LEDs on the Xilica do not flash above the first green LED at normal listening (it used to flash the red at the same level). I will see if I can get the Xilica to connect again and then at least make sure the setting was changed. I will be retuning as soon as I get the F20 subs home.

I really would like to know how to do a phase tune as I have been told it is the best way to tune.

 

[ddude003]

I have used rePhase to do phase correction with my FIR room correction filters... You can checkout rePhase here: https://rephase.org/ And I don't know if that is the same thing you are talking about... There are also a bunch of phase manipulation plugins for use in recording and mixing...

As far as smoothing goes, I don't when creating FIR filters... Its an entirely different way to do Room Correction... Although, I do love those old parallel analogue equalizers like Neve and Manley...

 

[skid00]

Is it? The documentation says "Variable smoothing is recommended for responses that are to be equalised." Though now I am curious what combination of smoothing and FDW people like when doing corrections.

I'm sorry! Misremem---Oh! Squirrel!

 

[ddude003]

I'm sorry! Misremem---Oh! Squirrel!

I think that's called a senior moment... Lol...

 

[MediumRare]

Last night I did a bit of tweeking and did not like it, and apparently did not save it to a new preset before tweeking it.I decided to see if i could get it better and started from scratch again. I had my left and right done and somehow when I was doing the center it went a different way and it gave me a boost @20Hz. Well since it was giving me more bass on the center and cutting the left and right bass... I went in and played with it again and got the left channel done, and then I lost my connection in the Xilica before I could save it. It appears to be good as my LEDs on the Xilica do not flash above the first green LED at normal listening (it used to flash the red at the same level). I will see if I can get the Xilica to connect again and then at least make sure the setting was changed. I will be retuning as soon as I get the F20 subs home.

I really would like to know how to do a phase tune as I have been told it is the best way to tune.



View attachment 60891

Looks terrific!