CSS 3way

[camrector]

Hey all I wanted to share my project I finished up. It’s a 3way using the 10in CSS SDX10 woofer, 5in Satori MW13p8 mid, and the CSS LD25x tweeter.
I started also with the CSS APR 10in passive radiator but have since replace the back and went sealed. Much happier with the change.
Using the Sublime Active crossover at 190hz and 2100hz.
Cabinets are 18mm Baltic Birch.
Heavy design inspo from Troels.
-3db @23hz.
This was my first build and they sound incredible. End game speakers.

 

[Sonnie Parker]

That's some fine looking work you did there... very nice.

I had pretty much forgotten about CSS and their drivers. That SDX10 is a very stout driver too, and I remember a lot of guys making subs with those.

Jeff at JTR uses the Baltic Birch... that's some good stuff too.

 

[camrector]

Thanks Sonnie.
It is an excellent sub/woofer. Plays dead flat to like 500hz. No issues at all crossing it at 190hz. It’s perfect in a sealed box too. 18mm Xmax and 750w rms. Just perfect for some DSP.

 

[Tim Hector]

Congrats on a very nice looking speaker. One suggestion that I might make. You added a front plate for time alignment. You can put a line of felt along the top edge between the mid and tweeter. Should be noticeable in cutting down a frequency ripple caused by cabinet diffraction. Enjoy these beauties. Tim

 

[camrector]

Thanks Tim.
What you cant really see in the picture is the 15degree slope that top edge makes with the cabinet. This acts a wave guide for the tweeter, so there isn’t any frequency ripple from diffraction.

 

[Mike Schramm]

Fantastic looking speakers. Gives me the bug to maybe try my hand at DIYing my own set of speakers like this. The pic of the layers of ply perfectly lining up in the corner is so gratifying!

 

[camrector]

Thank you!
You should do it. Very very rewarding

 

[Tim Hector]

I've been designing, building and repairing speakers for 45 years. For the guys on our forum, I am happy to offer significant advice for design and diy without compensation.

 

[Todd Anderson]

Hey all I wanted to share my project I finished up. It’s a 3way using the 10in CSS SDX10 woofer, 5in Satori MW13p8 mid, and the CSS LD25x tweeter.
I started also with the CSS APR 10in passive radiator but have since replace the back and went sealed. Much happier with the change.
Using the Sublime Active crossover at 190hz and 2100hz.
Cabinets are 18mm Baltic Birch.
Heavy design inspo from Troels.
-3db @23hz.
This was my first build and they sound incredible. End game speakers.

Wow, the edge detail on the cabinets is insane. The thickness of that Baltic Birch really comes into play with the look. Beautiful job. This is a kit, correct?

 

[CampyKid]

I've been designing, building and repairing speakers for 45 years. For the guys on our forum, I am happy to offer significant advice for design and diy without compensation.

Hi Tim, I'm a newbie to this forum, however I want to build my own speakers. I have advanced wooodworking skills and an electronics degree which I haven't used in years!
I'm curious as to what you think about using Car Audio drivers instead of Home Audio drivers. I'm not a fan of Chinese Electronics and would like to something more robust like some drivers from Hertz (Italian).
I just want to build something to replace my Boston Acoustics CR-85's just something in a 2 way system. I've looked at CSS and GR research and think that they're pricey considering they use Chinese Drivers.

 

[Tim Hector]

It would take some experience to do a good job with CR85's. The woofer is a 7 inch pincushion. You could build a frame that would drop in that pincushion mount and then mount a smaller driver in that. 6 I ch should work. Then, unless you are also going to modify the tweeter mount, you'll need to choose a tweeter that can be removed from its faceplate and mount in the horn load in that cabinet. You will still need to choose a woofer that will go down in that box and gives decent sensitivity, xmax and response curves for that box. Same with the tweeter. It needs to be the same sensitivity or higher than the woofer and be able to be crossed low enough to blend properly with the frequency extension of the woofer that you have chosen. This is only a small start of what you need to know to do this right. The idea of automotive drivers is no big deal as long as they can do the minimal things lined out above. Just be aware that car drivers are normally 4 ohms and often fall well below that. Many pieces of affordable audio gear won't like trying to drive them well. If this all makes sense. We can then add to the discussion about driver matching and any of the ideas that you have, crossover slopes, baffle step etc