DIY round sub?

[NBPK402]

I am still trying to find the sewer pipes. I think I could fit 2 of the 18" woofers in the k402 box I have after making bracing.
If I stick with the tubes I could get the 12" version of the 18" woofers, and save some cash which might very well pay for the pipes.

Decisions decisions.

 

[NBPK402]

Is there nothing in Mexico you can buy that would be similar?

The prices I posted were for the flat packs you got.
Most of what I want I have to import so I try to be careful, and get exactly what I can, and get the best price I can.

 

[Sonnie Parker]

I would use the boxes you have in this case... and try to work with those... either one 18" driver with a port ... or dual sealed 18's. The tubes will be a lot more difficult to get right... or would be for me... much more difficult to build the port supports and attached to the tube than it would be on a wood enclosure. But if you like a serious challenge, by all means... tube it!

 

[NBPK402]

How big are both of your boxes stacked? I only have 1 box, and it would still need bracing installed. On the Sonotube subs... If I did a dual Sonotube it would mean I only have to make the mounts for the drivers on each end of the tube. The only issue I can think of on the tubes is finding a good non sag woofer.

 

[Sonnie Parker]

They would be twice whatever the flat packs measure... about 48" I suppose... not where I can measure them right now.

Yeah... if you plan to do them sealed... just the ends are needed.

Never known subs to sag... there are dozens of down firing subs out there... and of all the ones I've ever built... never concerned myself with sagging.

 

[NBPK402]

How would I know what woofer is the one to get for a Sonotube?

 

[chrapladm]

How would I know what woofer is the one to get for a Sonotube?

Modelling software is how you select you woofer. What speakers are at Resendiz Car Audio?

You dont have to order from PE get a great subwoofer built. Car audio work great also. Sometimes a bunch of cheap 12's also does amazing. Eight or so cheap 12's might be the same price as a pair of 18's. And may model better.

 

[NBPK402]

I will check with the local shop to see what woofers they sell.
I will continue to source the sewer tube, and see what sizes are available, then, and once I find that info I will post up to decide on what woofers. I know I want as efficient as possible .

 

[Sonnie Parker]

Yes... you really need to model the enclosure with the sub.

I used WinISD for years... but I believe a lot of people are now using this site: https://subbox.pro/en/

 

[chrapladm]

Sensitive or efficient?

if sensitive then I would suggest a pro audio driver. TH or FLH or simple ported all work well.

So what space are we working with to start?

If the columns up front then that is a tuff space for a single ported 12 because your using a sono tube. If building yours with MDF then going with a bunch of cheap 12's would work. Like a line array if you will. Maybe four per side. But your looking at maybe 92-94db sensitivity.

For hitting down low(20hz) you will need a lot of volume. Mainly because you have a large room. So when going with that direction you need about a pair of 18's to start. Then go from there. So just building the sono subs limits your spl. You could go up and down firing pair of 12's in a sono tube but this will be likely a sealed cabinet. So that means 20-30hz wil probably be not as loud as the single ported cabinet. BUT everything else would be louder.

I dont want to talk you out of any design you may have your heart set after. BUT line array style four 12's per side would be pretty nice to go along with K402's. The 12's can be ported or sealed and can be whatever car audio so long as you have T/S parameters. If and when you have a possible driver to choose I cab model for you. I will be home the next few days so I can model.

 

[NBPK402]

I (efficient or sensitive?) do not want to need to get a 1k or 2k wpc amp. Could a line array be made as a triangle so it fits nice in the corner? I can do 1 possibly 2 for the dining room rear walls that are a max height of 10', and I can do 2 in the front corners too... my curtains will overlap about 4" though. Depending how much they come out from the wall... I might be able to go 12' tall. I am attaching a pic of a template I was going to use for a bass trap in the front corners.
My other option for a sub is on the side wall on each side of the couch. If I go there I could go 10', and still maintain making my bass traps for the corners too. To the right of the couch is my fireplace, but the sub could go next to it, and be lined up wih the couch. The fireplace sticks out 3' from the wall, and I have thought about putting acoustic panels on each side of the fireplace to stop reflections.
If I go with 12" woofers... what specs would be best for purchasing the woofers?
I am not in a big hurry... I will check out the local car audio store this next week. If they are too high or do not have what I need... I will import.

Sensitive or efficient?

if sensitive then I would suggest a pro audio driver. TH or FLH or simple ported all work well.

So what space are we working with to start?

If the columns up front then that is a tuff space for a single ported 12 because your using a sono tube. If building yours with MDF then going with a bunch of cheap 12's would work. Like a line array if you will. Maybe four per side. But your looking at maybe 92-94db sensitivity.

For hitting down low(20hz) you will need a lot of volume. Mainly because you have a large room. So when going with that direction you need about a pair of 18's to start. Then go from there. So just building the sono subs limits your spl. You could go up and down firing pair of 12's in a sono tube but this will be likely a sealed cabinet. So that means 20-30hz wil probably be not as loud as the single ported cabinet. BUT everything else would be louder.

I dont want to talk you out of any design you may have your heart set after. BUT line array style four 12's per side would be pretty nice to go along with K402's. The 12's can be ported or sealed and can be whatever car audio so long as you have T/S parameters. If and when you have a possible driver to choose I cab model for you. I will be home the next few days so I can model.

 

[NBPK402]

I will check this next week.

Modelling software is how you select you woofer. What speakers are at Resendiz Car Audio?

You dont have to order from PE get a great subwoofer built. Car audio work great also. Sometimes a bunch of cheap 12's also does amazing. Eight or so cheap 12's might be the same price as a pair of 18's. And may model better.

 

[NBPK402]

The only other location I have for a sub would be behind our sofa as a sub/sofa table. Sofa is 95" long, 32" high...we couod have about 20" deep. This would give us a near field sub, but also would put the sub in the center of the room, and I am not sure that is a good spot for bass.

 

[door]

I 've changed from 4 JL-E112's to 2 DIY H-frame dipole subwoofers. Well, subwoofers.. no.. they work between 40-120Hz.. But I really like the sound of them. Listening to dipole-bass is quite a difference!

Maybe I'll add 2 subwoofers for the 10-40Hz range.. But to be honest.. I listen to music only and I do not miss the freq. range <40Hz.

 

[OverTheAir]

I have yet to build a sub but have also considered a tube build. I cannot post links so do a Google search on "spinditty sonosub" for a useful article. The builder used circular metal duct instead of the more usual cardboard tube because he had it for free but the principles are the same. While he started with a tuned approach he eventually blocked the tubes and went sealed for better quality sound, which also simplifies the build if starting from scratch with this intent. A sealed sub would also be much shorter so may have more WAF appeal too. He also references the Sonosub program for modeling, Google search for "sonosub" will take you to it.