Has Anyone Tried HD Fury to Add DV to an HDR10 Display?

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There are four tabs that you have to adjust to get LLDV to work.

EDID Tab

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Scaler Tab

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HDR/AVI Tab

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DV Tab

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Some of those don't contain the full screen shot but they do contain the relevant portion that needs to be changed. One thing to keep in mind is that these are the generic projector settings. If you know your values for some of the items under the HDR/AVI tab you should enter those instead. I do know what my max and min luminance is for my projector but I kept it generic for now. I'll be testing this more as I go along.

Once you get all the values changed it is a good idea to shut down and restart everything. I had to do this like 3 or 4 times before it started working for me. A final thing to keep in mind is that when you log back into the HDFury, the values under HDR/AVI will show the default values for some reason. Don't worry about it though, just check the OSD screen to double check that your settings are still intact.

This item was an incredibly cool find! And while I can't relate to some of the claims being made, I'm told this does a much better job than the HDR Optimizer on the Panasonic UHD players. But I do not have one of those to make that judgement. Thanks for bringing this to my attention Witchdoctor!
 
I should add that these settings are what I used when putting the Diva in between my Pioneer VSX-LX302 and my Epson 5050 pj. You could also set it all up with all the sources to the Diva and then from the Diva to the receiver if you'd like.
 
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I'd been having handshake issues with my HDFury device and I think I solved it. Apparently you cannot use a cable shorter than 6 feet. I now have my sources feeding into the Pioneer receiver and the output goes directly to the Diva. The cables from the sources to the receiver are 3 feet but the one from the receiver to the Diva is now 6 feet and that seems to have solved my handshake issues. I also did some brief readings to adjust the Max/Min Luminance values, the Max CLL and Mac FALL values and finally the actual readings from my projector for Red, Green and Blue. I'm a big fan of it for a lot of content I watch in the theater. But it really doesn't help the compressed YouTubeTV signal at all.
 
Another update. I was experiencing issues last night after switching from 24Hz content to 60Hz content. Changed the cable from the ATV 4K froma 3 foot cable to a 6 foot cable and now all seems to be fine.
 
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I have a fiber optic cable to my projector. I don’t think I’d drop the money on fiber optic for short runs. I think that would be overkill. I’m using some 6’ no name cables I had laying around and they work just fine. HDFury recommends KableDirekt brand among a few others.

For the price of one fiber cable you could have 6-8 regular cables. The only thing that I have found is that you need to use 6’ cables. Otherwise you may have handshake issues.
 
The only thing that I have found is that you need to use 6’ cables. Otherwise you may have handshake issues.

I ran into that same bit of weirdness with a Darbee years ago. When their customer support told me to try it I thought they were just blowing me off. Imagine my surprise when it worked!
 
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I had read something regarding a minimum cable length back some time ago. Can’t find it now but I believe the gist of it was that each transceiver has it’s own spec for far/near crosstalk and that has to be met. If the cable is too short, that crosstalk results in handshake issues. I believe that most transceivers can probably handle 4 feet but 6 feet is probably a safe assumption. I have a terrible habit of forgetting stuff like this though until something jogs my memory.

I’ve always tried to push the limits going shorter as I’m not a fan of loose cabling laying around but sometimes you have to cave to the HDMI gods.
 
I bought a Vertex several months back to auto switch the preset on my JVC X790R based on the gamma metadata from the content. The "pseudo tone mapping" solution for older JVCs. I've never gotten around to connecting and configuring, however, because I don't have a PC.
 
Do you need a PC? For the Diva you just need a browser.
 
Do you need a PC? For the Diva you just need a browser.

Pretty sure the Vertex requires windows. Been awhile since I’ve looked tho.
 
Pretty sure the Vertex requires windows. Been awhile since I’ve looked tho.
It does appear that way. I see that there is only "PC Windows GUI Software" in the downloads section.
 
ATV does not support ATMOS from my Plex server though.
Why is that? The only problem I can think of - ATV requires it's specific kind of atmos - on DD+ codec, in MP4 container and with track atom's magic cookie properly set.
PS if you have TrueHD Atmos on your server, then indeed, ATV does not support it and there are no conversion tools available to the public.
 
Why is that? The only problem I can think of - ATV requires it's specific kind of atmos - on DD+ codec, in MP4 container and with track atom's magic cookie properly set.
PS if you have TrueHD Atmos on your server, then indeed, ATV does not support it and there are no conversion tools available to the public.
Well at the moment it's something I live with. :dontknow: I have most of my ATMOS titles up on Vudu so I can use the LLDV and ATMOS that way at the moment.

Still tracking down handshake issues with the Diva right now. Even the recommended cables are giving me video cut outs and audio/video cut outs. Nothing drives a person nuts more than screwing up a perfectly good, working system for some new feature. If I can't get things sorted out soon I may have to send up the white flag.
 
So after shuffling things around and changing cables over the last week or so, I had error free video last night. Rather than running everything through my Pioneer VSX-LX302, then thru the Diva and finally to the projector. I ran my sources to the Diva, then to the projector and connected the receiver to the Audio Out HDMI port on the Diva. That worked perfectly all night last night.

While you may think I’m done, I’m not. The HDFury people sent me some special firmware to try out and have it work the way it was originally connected: sources -> Pioneer -> Diva -> PJ. So I’ll mess around with that some today and see if it solves the issues. According to HDFury, having 2 repeaters in the signal chain is more than likely what was causing the issue.
 
After almost two weeks of no issues I moved the cables back to the original setup and it’s still working fine.

Sources -> Pioneer AVR -> Diva -> PJ

On another note, apparently this is catching on as I saw it mentioned in Sound & Vision’s Top Gun 4K review.
 
FYI, another of the main uses of the HDFury devices is to split out the audio, send it to an older AVR, whilst sending the video on to the display. That way a 4K stream can be played with a non-4k AVR processing the audio.
 
FWIW, I tried this and it wasn’t worth it. Setting it up was pretty easy, but ultimately I returned the HD Fury Integral 2 because either it was defective or there is literally no discernible difference between DV and regular HDR. I watched lots of different sources and spent quite a lot of time trying things that HDFury support recommended.

My setup is Atv4k 2021, Xbox One S, FireTV4k + Denon 4400H + Epson 5040UB

Xbox can’t do DV with discs no matter what you do, so that was also a disappointment. The ATV4K was easy to tell when the signal was DV vs. HDR. Unfortunately, DV looked exactly the same as HDR on everything I tested. HDR looks good on the epson as is, but I was hoping DVs DTM would make a difference especially in dark scenes.
 
It was easy to tell DV vs HDR and yet they looked exactly the same? I believe something was setup incorrectly.

One of the unfortunate things when dealing with HD Fury is that they are Taiwanese company so support, while always there, is a bit cumbersome. I use mine whenever I'm watching movies in the basement and the difference between HDR and LLDV is pretty evident. And my setup is close to yours in that I have an ATV4K and an Epson 5050ub.
 
I was watching this YouTube video recently from Murideo regarding the madVR products. If you're not familiar with their products they're an expensive option to add dynamic tone mapping to your setup. Well about 24 minutes into the video they are using a clip from Spears & Munsil's latest demo content that shows a horse out in a snowy field. The left side shows it without the madVR enabled and the right shows it enabled. I tested this last week with my HD Fury device and I got identical results as the madVR folks did in the video. Here's the YT video:

Fast forward to about the 24 minute mark to see what I'm talking about. I'll have to break out my camera and the WhiBal card so that I can get some shots of my setup doing the same thing. A madVR box costs $7K++ while an HD Fury Vertex2 costs $450.
 
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And here are the images.

Screen shot of the madVR Envy demo:

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Here are the shots using the HD Fury Diva to send LLDV to my Epson 5050ub - left side is no LLDV and right side is LLDV signal from Sony X700:

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Not cropped to the same size - been awhile since I've done any screen shots.
 
So, you're using the HD Fury to tone map for your Epson?

I'm trying to pull together a madVR review. Curious to know what else it does to justify the price increase?
 
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