HSU Research ULS-15 MK2 Subwoofer Review

Manufacturer & Model
HSU Research ULS-15 MK2 Subwoofer
MSRP
$779 (Satin Black, reviewed), $929 (Real Wood Veneer, Rosenut)
Link
http://www.hsuresearch.com
Highlights
Excellent sound quality and deep bass capability, manageable size and weight, imposing 15-inch driver and 600 Watt BASH amplifier, effective onboard sound quality controls, plays well with music as well as movies, high-quality fit and finish, attractive price point.
Summary
The ULS-15 MK2 subwoofer is HSU Research’s only true sealed design, sporting a gorgeous 15-inch driver powered by a 600 Watt BASH amplifier. It’s high-quality finish and customer-friendly size make it easy to place in nearly any room. The included Q and EQ controls make for simple integration, boosting usability for owners that are less technically inclined. Overall performance is excellent, highlighted by killer low frequency capabilities and tight reactive bass. Considering the ULS-15 MK’s generous price point and 30-day return policy, this is a sub that’s easy to recommend.
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For a limited time, AV NIRVANA is hosting a Giveaway Contest for a FREE HSU ULS-15 MK2 Subwoofer! Click here to learn how to win.

Experts say the first step to recovery is admitting there’s a problem. But in this particular circumstance, I admit nothing because recovery is the furthest thing from my mind. I will, however, share a little secret with you: I’m addicted to bass.

Like many enthusiasts, my first home theater system featured a woefully underpowered subwoofer. It took roughly a month to realize my hard-earned money had been poorly spent, punctuated by a rather embarrassing demo session that left my new pride and joy shamefully submitting to the demands of a hard-hitting film clip in the presence of a curious friend. It took another month to convince my better half that a new sub wasn’t just needed, it was a life or death necessity. And after promising to make a smart and fiscally responsible upgrade, I quickly found myself on a one-way journey down the low-end rabbit hole.

Some 15 years and eight-plus subwoofer purchases later, I can confidently say I’ve learned quite a bit during my journey to find great bass. First, capable bass performance is in fact a necessity. Second, capable bass performance doesn’t come cheap. And third, there’s no shame in housing some 460-pounds of foundation-cracking subsonic boxes in your home theater room. I only share this knowledge because both points one and two are completely pertinent to this review. After all, lots of enthusiasts yearn for smile inducing bass and most would like to spend as little as possible to acquire it. But that’s the trick, right? Finding the illusive sweet spot between value and true performance in the low frequency realm. It just so happens that HSU’s remarkable ULS-15 MK2 fits the bill, and is likely the perfect answer for a large segment of enthusiasts.


Born From Quality
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Ask any enthusiast to rattle off a list of reputable subwoofer brands, and the name “HSU” will undoubtedly be mentioned. Founded by Dr. Poh Hsu, HSU Research has specialized in thoughtfully engineered subwoofers for nearly three full decades. The company originally emerged in 1991 when it offered a cylindrical shaped subwoofer (dubbed a sono-tube), using mail order to reach customers. It has since remained one of the segment’s oldest Internet Direct brands, continually striking an amazing balance between price and performance that’s topped with a sterling reputation.

HSU currently offers five different subwoofer models ranging from its entry level VTF-1 MK3 ($399) to its top-of-the-line VTF-15H MK2 (starting at $899). The ULS-15 MK2 (subject of this review) stands as the company’s lone sealed design, priced at $779 (Satin Black) and $929 (Rosenut), with the option to buy dual ULS-15 MK2s for $1,499 or $1,799 respectively. Originally released last year, the MK2 version of the ULS-15 offers more power and performance controls over its predecessor. It also offers a lower price.

Lower price, you say?

Yes folks, HSU’s pricing never strays from being customer friendly. And because many of its new sub designs have commonalities in componentry, the company has leveraged economies of scale to deliver a retooled ULS-15 model that costs $300 less than the original design.

That deserves a round of applause.


The Walk Around
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Weighing 65-pounds, the ULS-15 MK2 is just manageable enough for a single person to lift and carry without requiring a recovery period involving gobs of Advil and a heating pad. Helping matters are the sub’s physical dimensions, which equate to an 18-inch cube (19-in H x 18-in W x 19-1/2-in D with grill, feet, and amp), and large rubber feet that are firmly married to its underside. Not only is it relatively easy to carry, but its overall size allows it to be incredibly room friendly as well. That makes it a great candidate for high traffic rooms or situations where space is limited.

The cabinet is constructed with 3/4-in MDF (1-1/2-in front baffle), and our review sample arrived finished with HSU’s attractive Satin Black coating. A simple knuckle-wrap on the sub’s exterior produces a relatively muted thud, and overall craftsmanship is excellent. The sub’s rounded corners and seamless edges are physical feature highlights, adding a touch of styling that makes the ULS-15 MK2 look great to the eye.

The speaker houses a 15-in front firing woofer that’s covered by a magnetically attached cloth grille. The grille is noteworthy because it snaps into perfect alignment with the cabinet’s edges when positioned over the driver, making for a super clean appearance. When removed, the driver’s rather potent disposition is exposed, amplified by its glossy concave center and robust surround materials.


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(HSU Research)


The backside of the MK2 houses a BASH plate amplifier that’s capable of delivering 600 Watts of continuous power (2000 Watts peak) and offers a plethora of controls. To begin, it carries three different modes of connection: balanced stereo XLR inputs, dual high-level speaker inputs, and two RCA inputs. Moving across the top, you’ll find a volume control, phase switch (0 to 180 degrees), operating mode selector (EQ1 and EQ2), Q Control (0.3 to 0.7), crossover frequency knob, crossover selector (In or Out), and a three-way power mode switch (On, Auto, and Off). Below the large heatsink is a voltage selection rocker switch (120 or 240 volts), a fuse holder, and a basic power cord connection.

HSU Research says the ULS-15 MK2 is capable of delivering usable bass down to 20 Hz (+/- 1 dB), which is impressive considering the sub’s overall size. As you’ll see, I found it’s in-room performance more than matched that claim.


Operational Features
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One of the ULS-15 MK2’s more attractive features is its ability to serve as a sub for users that have the gear and knowhow to apply outboard electronic EQ, while also offering less technically equipped customers simple fine tuning controls that can lead to radically better sound.

The included Q control knob can be set between 0.3 and 0.7, helping to compensate for various room sizes. The lowest setting delivers the highest mid-bass head room for any sized room and the flattest low-bass response in small to medium sized rooms. The larger your room, the higher you’ll want to set the Q control, with 0.7 meant to be selected for the largest of rooms.

There’s also a switch selectable EQ control that allows owners to choose from one of two operating modes. The “EQ1” mode directs the subwoofer to deliver the flattest deep bass response possible, while “EQ2” trims output on frequencies below 40 Hz. In essence, EQ2 is designed to allow the ULS-15 MK2 to be used as a mid-bass module, but it also can help tame bass that’s overly bloated or boomy.

To illustrate the utility of the sub’s output controls, I recruited Room EQ Wizard to record in-room measurements of the MK2 running in various EQ and Q modes (microphone placed at the MLP). The resulting measurements mirrored each other across Q settings of 0.3, 0.5, and 0.7, with the selectable EQ mode having a repeatable impact on deep bass output. For example, the graph (below) shows measurements taken while operating at Q 0.5. The green line illustrates the sub’s measured output in EQ1, while the red line shows the impact of engaging EQ2. The blue line illustrates the additional impact of external parametric equalization on the sub’s output while operating under Q 0.5 with EQ2 engaged.


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In-room EQ Control Demo: Green = Q 0.5, EQ1, Red = Q 0.5, EQ2, Blue = Q 0.5, EQ2 plus external EQ

These measurements demonstrate the value of the MK2’s EQ modes, highlighting EQ2’s ability to serve as an effective trim tool for owners experiencing bottom heavy bass; a simple flick of the switch and the sub’s onboard processing can tame low-end unpleasantries. This is huge for owners that are looking for simple-to-use integration controls.


Out Of The Box
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Like other HSU Research gear I’ve reviewed, the ULS-15 MK2’s packaging was fit for the task and delivered the sub in pristine condition. The sub shipped protectively housed in a box within a box, and I found the entire unboxing process to be a simple one-person job. You can watch a video of the ULS-15 MK emerging from its packaging by clicking on the video link below.




Items shipped with the sub included an unboxing guide, a detailed 12-page manual that’s loaded with installation tips and trouble-shooting solutions, a simple graphics driven quick set-up guide, and a standard power cord. The ULS-15 MK2 currently carries a seven-year warranty for materials and workmanship (two-years for the amplifier), with terms and conditions clearly identified in the final pages of the manual.


Set Up
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As mentioned, the ULS-15 MK2 is sized to be manageable. While some may find it easier to borrow a friend to help with carrying and positioning, I was able to lift and haul the sub down a flight of stairs to my dedicated 2000-cubic foot home theater room. The MK2 was placed in the room’s front left corner (roughly 18-in from the room’s left side wall). Following 30 hours of break-in, calibration, and equalization, the sub (settings: Q 0.5, EQ 1) sounded phenomenal, with an added bite of low-end heat that my ears typically enjoy.


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Post-calibration, Q 0.5, EQ1

I mated the sub with a stereo pair of HSU’s fantastic CCB-8 speakers (external crossover: 80 Hz). These speakers were reviewed last month (click here for the full review), and I enjoyed the opportunity to listen to them again. When setup correctly (an aggressive toe-in that allows for off axis listening), the amount of detail and rich stereo imaging issued by the CCB-8 is staggering. Definitely a speaker that’s worth your attention. Other associated equipment included Yamaha’s AVENTAGE RX-A3070 (read review), OPPO’s UDP-205 (read review), and a Behringer Feedback Destroyer 1124p.


Listening Impressions
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(Paramount Pictures)

Now for the fun part: taking the ULS-15 MK2 for a test drive down a road into the depths of subterranean of sound.

I’m no stranger to sealed subs and have found they play particularly well to my ears. As the above post-calibration measurement illustrates, room gain helped to promote plenty of performance from the MK2 below the 20 Hz mark (note: this is specific to my room, another setting may produce different results). The sub consistently issued incredibly confident bass and never hinted at wilting when pushed to reference levels. And while it certainly had zero issue exerting its presence with relative ease, the MK2’s output was highlighted by bass that was alive and exacting. Transients were crisp and I found its tonality to be natural and uncolored.

One of the great joys of integrating new gear is deciding how to challenge it first. Feeling rather spunky, I opened my listening sessions by introducing the MK2 to Skrillex’s debut album: Recess (CD). DJ Sonny Moore’s Recess tracks are the musical equivalent of CrossFit for a sub, presenting layered and torturously deep bass that dish a relentless attack. “All Is Fair” led the MK2 into a world of eye popping driver excursion, with both quick and elongated bass notes pulsating into the room. The track’s demands were devoured by the MK2 and the sub delivered an incredible performance without breaking a sweat. “Recess” seemed to make the MK2 grin as it powered through the track’s rhythm, filling my theater room with beautifully tuned low frequency terror. Then there was “Stranger,” which had the ULS-15 MK2 delivering couch thumping pulses of bass that sounded full and complete (not cut short or inhibited).

While tapping Skrillex was intended to test the extreme musical bass capabilities of the ULS-15 MK2, it’s worth mentioning that the accompanying CCB-8 speakers delivered an equally impressive show. Imaging was off the charts as mid and high frequencies appeared to climb the walls around my listening position. In fact, “Stranger” was a highlight demo track for both the sub and speakers, and one that had my finger hitting repeat on the remote. The seamless marriage of the MK2 and the CCB-8s was mesmerizing, and the trio of speakers worked in unison to paint an audio image that transfixed my ears.

Next, I turned to The Chainsmokers’ Inside Out EP (CD) and Yello’s 2009 album entitled Touch (CD). Both discs offer slightly tamer takes on electronica as compared to Skrillex’s approach. My ears were treated to smooth and elongated bass notes that the MK2 delivered with precision, and tighter bursts of bass that presented with a quickness and sharpness that kept them in step with various songs’ up-tempo beats. And the sub wasn’t shy about being taken to ear-crushing levels of volume; I was never able to find a tolerable volume level that caused the MK2’s composure to falter.

To test the ULS-15 MK2’s refined musical side, I reached for a demo disc furnished by HSU Research for use with its CCB-8 speakers. Listening to Abdulah Ibrahim’s ”Calypso Minor” resulted in a confident bassline loaded with character and spunk, sparkling with clear definition that blended perfectly with the song’s sharp spirts of horns and piano. And Henri Mancini’s familiar “The Pink Panther Theme” gave the sub peppy bass to chew on, which it regurgitated with transfixing detail.

Moving on to movies, I selected three films known for brutally deep bass: Interstellar, War of the Worlds, and Transformers Dark of the Moon. While the ULS-15 MK2 kept me entertained with its impressive musical prowess, I was ready to push the sub to its outer limits with powerful explosions, rocket engines, and the raw impact of Hollywood’s trademark special effects.

Interstellar’s early film rocket launch sequence literally sent my home theater rumbling into orbit, rattling the very core of my room’s walls as glorious waves of deep bass massaged my entire body. Once in space, subtle thumps associated with the ship’s maneuvering rockets sounded precise and abrupt. But the film’s most iconic subwoofer moments (the crew entering the worm hole and Cooper entering the black hole) were the best proving grounds for the ULS-15 MK2. Both scenes have infrasonic material capable of devouring lesser drivers. The MK2 was more than able to tackle the film’s demands, and the resulting bass-laden audio show was on par with performance characteristics associated with my reference system. The intensity of the black hole scene was especially noteworthy, as the MK2’s clean low end effortlessly extended without distorting or inhibiting output with audible noise.

Next up was War of the Worlds, which is widely recognized for its incredible bass heavy “pod emergence scene.” As the scene progressed, the ULS-15 MK2 stood tall for the challenge. Ultra-low frequencies crackled as the sub pounded my theater room with clean output, sending shockwaves through my couch. The low-frequency hums of the pod’s engines were smooth and delicious, as were the thunderous thuds of destruction as surrounding buildings split and cracked into rubble. And of note, the MK2 revealed a particularly challenging low frequency dip that’s present once the pod is standing upright and ready for battle. It was an absolute delight to experience and a big performance checkmark for the MK2.

Last but not least, Transformers: Dark of the Moon took its turn with the ULS-15 MK2. The film’s highlight bass attack (Chapter 17) is one of my favorite demo testing scenes. The MK2 unleashed venomous output, sending blasts of gunfire and pulsating explosions through my chest. The roar of engines and the incredible heartbeat sound as paratroopers jumped from their damaged Osprey pounded my theater room to deep and controlled levels. And the chaos reached reference levels as a skyscraper came crashing down. Time to call my home owner’s insurance...the foundation of my home may have cracked! The ULS-15 MK2 delivered an impressive performance for the duration of this challenging clip, complementing the film’s dynamic audio with matched and powerful bass. Truly impressive!


Conclusion
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(HSU Research)

From a buyer’s perspective, HSU Research’s ULS-15 MK2 is desirable on a number of levels. It carries a middle ground price tag, it’s sized right for easy room integration, it has impressive output specs, and is backed by a company with decades of experience and a five-star reputation.

That leaves one rather large question: how does it actually perform?

Demo sessions executed in my medium-sized room point to one simple answer: Excellent. The ULS-15 MK2 knocked my socks off and left me thoroughly impressed. In fact, it’s a sub that I’d purchase if I were in the market for new gear.

The ULS-15 MK2 is capable of staggering output at reference levels, all the while remaining composed and highly detailed. My listening sessions were loaded with accurate bass that was tight and controlled, and I never felt the sub was incapable of meeting the demands of demo material. Add to that an attractive cabinet and plentiful integration controls, and the ULS-15 MK2 is an absolute steal. You’ll be hard pressed to find similar performance in the sub-$800 category, making the ULS-15 MK2 a highly recommended buy.

For a limited time, AV NIRVANA is hosting a Giveaway Contest for a FREE HSU ULS-15 MK2 Subwoofer! Click here to learn how to win.


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ULS-15 MK Subwoofer Specifications
  • Amplifier Power (RMS): 2000 W Short Term, 600 W Continuous
  • Frequency Response: 20 - 200 Hz, +/-1 dB
  • Woofer: 15 Inch
  • Q Control Range: 0.3 - 0.7
  • Crossover Slope: 24 dB/Oct
  • Phase: 0°/180°
  • Inputs: Balanced XLR (2), Line Level (2), Speaker Level (2)
  • Power Outlet Requirement: 720 W, 120/240V
  • Enclosure Dimensions: 18" H x 18" W x 18" D
  • Dimensions with Grill, Feet & Amp: 19" H x 18" W x 191⁄2"D
  • Weight: 65 lbs
  • Warranty: 7-years on Woofer, 2-years on Electronics
  • Designed and Engineered in the U.S.A.
 
Last edited:

Todd Anderson

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I also have a concrete floor... and tactile transducers (50Hz and lower)...love it! The transducers add a little rumble that lost due to the floor. Frankly, I'd rather go that route than build a subfloor.
 

Matthew J Poes

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I also have a concrete floor... and tactile transducers (50Hz and lower)...love it! The transducers add a little rumble that lost due to the floor. Frankly, I'd rather go that route than build a subfloor.

I didn't do the subfloor either I just know it's a viable option. I did the riser for two rows of seats.

I like the tactile transducers myself. I played around with EQ to see if I could get a more natural vibration but it caused it to overload. I currently run them at 65hz and below I believe but I've played with different settings. At 100hz it's like a theme park. At 50hz I found it sudtle and disconnected from the subs so I went up to 65hz or so and decided it was ok. I'd like to play with it more when I have time. I also want to find a quick way to automatically shut it off for music or use a different dsp setting or something. I don't find it adds much good to music and can be distracting at times. The Low E of an acoustic guitar should not rattle your butt.
 

bkeeler10

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Rigid walls and concrete floors actually increase LF output by better containing the bass. Such rooms have more room gain. They just have less tactile sensation as it's hard to shack a 2' thick hunk of concrete.

I think if you do multiple subs and put a riser or subfloor with subs on the riser or subfloor, you will be very satisfied. I have three subs at the moment with one on my riser. I also have a Buttkicker. A few people have commented that they were shocked at how much tactile feel I have even without the buttkicker. With the buttkicker it can range from subtle enhancement to bonkers.

I'm a big fan of the multi-Sub approach. I've had some variant of it in every room since I discovered it from Geddes around 2008. I've repeatedly experimented with three subs in a single corner. Subs only up front, and subs throughout the room and I always find that multiple subs throughout the room is the most satisfying and best measuring.
Yep, I've been planning on multiples since I started planning. I had actually been running three for some time in my prior room, but I had virtually zero placement flexibilty. I was able to have two in the front of the room and one in the back, and it worked out okay. However, in my new room I will be able to use just about any location I want, as long as it is up against a wall. That flexibility with four sub boxes should allow me excellent response, seat-to-seat consistency and more output than I can handle. And in a room that small, there should be room gain to spare and plenty of subsonic output from those sealed subs :) I'm hoping to be flat to something like 10 Hz or so.
room
 

Matthew J Poes

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Yep, I've been planning on multiples since I started planning. I had actually been running three for some time in my prior room, but I had virtually zero placement flexibilty. I was able to have two in the front of the room and one in the back, and it worked out okay. However, in my new room I will be able to use just about any location I want, as long as it is up against a wall. That flexibility with four sub boxes should allow me excellent response, seat-to-seat consistency and more output than I can handle. And in a room that small, there should be room gain to spare and plenty of subsonic output from those sealed subs :) I'm hoping to be flat to something like 10 Hz or so.
room

Cool we should carry on in your theater thread to keep this thread relevant. I would guess something like this ULS-15 would be very capable of doing 10hz in a sealed room.
 

Matthew J Poes

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Hey Todd,

You mentioned a massive saving in driver cost through economies of scale. The savings was actually as much as I would have expected the driver cost to be. Would HSU be willing to share more about this? We're they paying like $600 for the previous driver?
 

gooddoc

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As you know, every room is different, and room gain can vary. But I have 4 of these, one in each corner, and I get below 20Hz, but barely hit 15 Hz extension.

This is my 3 main listening positions. Room approx. 13.5' x 28'

Post ARC 3 LPs.JPG
 

Matthew J Poes

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Those measurements look consistent with Todd's.

We would need to ask HSU, but I would guess that the HSU sub has a high-pass filter to protect the driver from over-excursion somewhere. Significant low frequency response below 15hz requires a tight and sealed room. At such low frequencies the room acts as a pressure vessel, with the room's pressure largely going up and down with the drivers movement, rather than a wave moving around in the room (as it would at higher frequencies). The 1/4 wavelength of 15hz is 18 feet. By 10hz its longer than your room. That means that at such low frequencies room needs to be able to contain the pressure rather than flex with it, and most rooms can't do that. A concrete bunker or soundproof room typically can and would have more gain at such low frequencies. The workaround is to have a speaker with significant output that low placed close to the listener. You need a lot of displacement to have significant output below 15hz.
 

gooddoc

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Yeah, as they say, there is no replacement for displacement. I came from 4 18" high displacement subs, and I was solid to 10 Hz and below. It is a noticeable difference on many HT soundtracks.
 

Todd Anderson

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Hey Todd,

You mentioned a massive saving in driver cost through economies of scale. The savings was actually as much as I would have expected the driver cost to be. Would HSU be willing to share more about this? We're they paying like $600 for the previous driver?

I can ask... but I highly doubt HSU will open the door to having that kind of information go public.
 

Talley

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I have test results from my VTF-15 MK2 a single sub hitting in the 14 range with ease but it does fall off. Thinking of adding another for a quick cheap dual setup. I like the VTF version because I play around with sealed/ported. I'd much rather have 4 of the ULS versions. They are way more friendly on size and I think stacking them would give a much better impact.

Example: 8 of these with 2 stacks of 4 vertical one stack on each side of the screen would without a doubt be powerful. Each stack would be 2400w and having 8 would be $6,600 delivered. The room gain on this setup would be insane. Best part is.... the dualdrive kit price is 1650 and you can start with 2 and then move to 4 then 6 then 8.... Just keep expanding.

I've thought about this too.
 

Matthew J Poes

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I have test results from my VTF-15 MK2 a single sub hitting in the 14 range with ease but it does fall off. Thinking of adding another for a quick cheap dual setup. I like the VTF version because I play around with sealed/ported. I'd much rather have 4 of the ULS versions. They are way more friendly on size and I think stacking them would give a much better impact.

Example: 8 of these with 2 stacks of 4 vertical one stack on each side of the screen would without a doubt be powerful. Each stack would be 2400w and having 8 would be $6,600 delivered. The room gain on this setup would be insane. Best part is.... the dualdrive kit price is 1650 and you can start with 2 and then move to 4 then 6 then 8.... Just keep expanding.

I've thought about this too.
Thanks for sharing your real world experience with these. It's always great to hear what folks find when they use these in their rooms and it sounds like your results confirm Todd's review as well.

You may find this article interesting: http://data-bass.com/data?page=content&id=80

It gives some great information based on real tests of the impacts of subwoofer placement. It's like a real world confirmation of the work of Geddes and Welti et al.
If you do buy 8 subs let us know. That should be pretty neat.
 

Todd Anderson

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Our ULS-15 giveaway winner has received his subwoofer.

Click here to see some photos of the sub being unboxed on his end... and read some initial impressions!
 

funambulistic

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Thank you for the excellent review! My beloved Sunfire True Subwoofer (original model that I have had for over twenty years) finally went belly up. I could have it repaired by Bill Flannery, but decided to see what has happened in the last two decades (actually I knew - I was just happy with my Sunfire). After tons of online research (your review helped immensely) and various criteria based on budget, room size and listening preferences, I was able to narrow down my selection to the HSU ULS-15 MK2. The Monoprice Monolith 12" THX Ultra and SVS SB-2000 were in the running, but I do not really have room the former and felt the HSU would out perform the latter (unless I go for a pair - which would blow my budget). I ordered last week and cannot wait to get my new toy!
 

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Thank you for the excellent review! My beloved Sunfire True Subwoofer (original model that I have had for over twenty years) finally went belly up. I could have it repaired by Bill Flannery, but decided to see what has happened in the last two decades (actually I knew - I was just happy with my Sunfire). After tons of online research (your review helped immensely) and various criteria based on budget, room size and listening preferences, I was able to narrow down my selection to the HSU ULS-15 MK2. The Monoprice Monolith 12" THX Ultra and SVS SB-2000 were in the running, but I do not really have room the former and felt the HSU would out perform the latter (unless I go for a pair - which would blow my budget). I ordered last week and cannot wait to get my new toy!

Hey @funambulistic, glad to see you on AV NIRVANA. Welcome to the community! Glad you found the review helpful... looks like your search led you to three great options. Tough choices! The Monolith 12" is a heavy hitter (great sub), but does have a larger footprint (not to mention greater overall weight).... the ULS-15 is not only room friendly, but also easy to move around. Bottomline, as long as sub and room are a good match, you're going to be extremely happy. It's a great product with handy onboard integration tools (Room EQ)... and it can dish with serious output.

Can't read your impressions!

Hope to see you around the forum!
 

funambulistic

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Hey @funambulistic, glad to see you on AV NIRVANA. Welcome to the community! Glad you found the review helpful... looks like your search led you to three great options. Tough choices! The Monolith 12" is a heavy hitter (great sub), but does have a larger footprint (not to mention greater overall weight).... the ULS-15 is not only room friendly, but also easy to move around. Bottomline, as long as sub and room are a good match, you're going to be extremely happy. It's a great product with handy onboard integration tools (Room EQ)... and it can dish with serious output.

Can't read your impressions!

Hope to see you around the forum!

Hi Todd and thank you for the warm welcome! I've enjoyed what I seen so far at AV NIRVANA and would like to be a part of the community as I make my way (again) back into the (mostly) audio world. I will be sure to report on the HSU when it arrives!
 

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GoldenEar Invisa MPX
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SVS Prime Elevation x4 (Top Front, Top Mid-Front)
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SVS Prime Elevation x4 (Top Middle, Top Rear)
Subwoofers
Quad Array SVS SB16s
Other Speakers
Behringer 1124p; Aura Bass Shaker Pros; SuperSub X
Screen
Seymour Screen Excellence, Enlightor NEO AT Screen
Video Display Device
JVC NZ8
Other Equipment
Sony 65-inch A95L OLED
Sony 65-inch X900F
ZeroSurge 8R15W x 2
ZeroSurge 2R15W x 2
Look forward to it!
 

Deuce

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Rigid walls and concrete floors actually increase LF output by better containing the bass. Such rooms have more room gain. They just have less tactile sensation as it's hard to shack a 2' thick hunk of concrete.

I think if you do multiple subs and put a riser or subfloor with subs on the riser or subfloor, you will be very satisfied. I have three subs at the moment with one on my riser. I also have a Buttkicker. A few people have commented that they were shocked at how much tactile feel I have even without the buttkicker. With the buttkicker it can range from subtle enhancement to bonkers.

I'm a big fan of the multi-Sub approach. I've had some variant of it in every room since I discovered it from Geddes around 2008. I've repeatedly experimented with three subs in a single corner. Subs only up front, and subs throughout the room and I always find that multiple subs throughout the room is the most satisfying and best measuring.
MATTHEW - RE RISER/SUBFLOOR- WHAT IS THE BENEFIT OF A RISER ? WHAT IS A “SUBFLOOR” (OBVIOUSLY YOU DONT DIG A HOLE IN THE FLOOR- DO YOU MEAN AN ELEVATED FLOOR TO PUT THE SUB ON ? WHAT IS THE DELTA BETWEEN A SUBFLOOR AND A RISER? WOULD BUILDING A BOX TO ELEVATE THE SUB ACCOMPLISH SAME THING ? HOW HIGH SHOULD THIS BE ?
 

Deuce

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Rigid walls and concrete floors actually increase LF output by better containing the bass. Such rooms have more room gain. They just have less tactile sensation as it's hard to shack a 2' thick hunk of concrete.

I think if you do multiple subs and put a riser or subfloor with subs on the riser or subfloor, you will be very satisfied. I have three subs at the moment with one on my riser. I also have a Buttkicker. A few people have commented that they were shocked at how much tactile feel I have even without the buttkicker. With the buttkicker it can range from subtle enhancement to bonkers.

I'm a big fan of the multi-Sub approach. I've had some variant of it in every room since I discovered it from Geddes around 2008. I've repeatedly experimented with three subs in a single corner. Subs only up front, and subs throughout the room and I always find that multiple subs throughout the room is the most satisfying and best measuring.
MATTHEW - RE RISER/SUBFLOOR- WHAT IS THE BENEFIT OF A RISER ? WHAT IS A “SUBFLOOR” (OBVIOUSLY YOU DONT DIG A HOEL IN THE FLOOR- DO YOU MEAN AN ELEVATED FLOORT O PUT THE SDUB ON ? WHAT SI THE DELTA BVETWEEN A SUBFLOOR AND A RISER? WOULD BUILDIGN A BOX TO ELEVATE THE SUB ACCOMPLISH SAME THING ?
Got it. It’s a beast... duals in your room would definitely get you in the right direction. ;-)

You can see the output I was able to get in-room. Was definitely impressed.
OK TODD- OF THE SUBWOOFERS YOU HAVE TESTED, AND WILLING TO SPEDN MORE THAN $900, WHERE WOULD YOU GO NEXT IF YOU WANTED TO UPGRADE FROM THIS HSU ?
 

Matthew J Poes

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Hey @Deuce a subfloor and riser are means to decouple a floor surface from a concrete slab and provide a mechanism for the sub to add more intense tactile sensations.

A subfloor means a floated t&g floor below the carpet or wood. You want it floated on something resilient like rubber pieces.

A riser is an elevated section of floor uses to raise the rear seats above front seats. It has the same effect as a subfloor. Arguably can provide more benefit because it can be made to shake more. Just don’t adhere it to the walls or floor. You want it decoupled.

For what it’s worth, in a high-end soundproof room you do in fact dig a hole. In a space with a cement floor (such as a basement, slab, or even commercial space) you need to decouple the floor. Cement is very massive and fairly dense, which means sound travels readily through it. This has a number of problems for a soundproof space. One is that sound from outside the space, such as mechanical noise, is transmitted readily and raises the noise floor. It's often only low frequencies so you may not readily notice it, but it shows up in recordings you might make, in measurements of the room, and can have a sort of subconcious effect our perception of quietness. The other problem, the bigger one for soundproof theaters, is that sound, especially LF sound from within the theater is transmitted outside the theater. You can readily prove this to yourself by playing loud sound in the theater, closing the doors, and laying your head on the floor. What you hear coming from the floor is often surprisingly loud. I didn't do this in my own theater because the cost was prohibitive and the benefit relatively small. From a measurement standpoint is does mean my noise floor in the LF's is pretty high, but nobody notices it much.

In any case, when you dig a hole, so to speak, to create a decoupled cement floor, you put in special isolators before repouring the new floor. Often you use spring isolators which a specially tuned resonant frequency that resonates at just a few hz or less. .5hz is ideal. I mention this because you can begin to understand what the goal would be for a decoupled subfloor. You can never equal the performance of a truly decoupled slab, but you can approximate it. You want rubber "springs" that float the T&G above the cement and provide as low a resonant frequency as possible. It's a lot of work, but can be done relatively cheaply. Again, I didn't do this myself as cost is not inconsequential. I used a multi-layer underlayment approach instead that I thought would be just as good, but my measurements show it did little to nothing.

Now when you say delta between subfloor and riser, you mean the difference or improvement. It completely depends on how you build each. If you made a fully decoupled slab, mounted a further decoupled subfloor of T&G, then I would say that adding a riser would further add nothing to the equation. However, if your approach to a subfloor is just to lay down some T&G on a vapor shield, that won't offer a lot of additional tactile feel over the slab. The Riser can add more tactile feel (but only for those sitting on the riser). The key to getting the extra tactile feel is that the riser needs to be decoupled. I actually tied my riser to my wall through a decoupled mount that used a double rubber isolator and in hind site it was a mistake. If I really wanted to tie it to something, I should have used spring isolators. What I suggest to other people is don't get fancy, just don't nail/screw it to the wall or floor. Instead, float it. They make these rubber isolators that are designed to isolate 2x4 bottom and top plates. They work terrible for that, but they work great for decoupling the riser on the cheap. If you want the ultimate decoupling, nothing is going to be better than spring isolators, so just buy enough of those that the weight of the riser, subwoofers, chairs, and people gives you a resonant frequency that is roughly less than 2hz. You don't have to do all the engineering yourself. Calcualte the weight of everything, it's total dimensions, and then just call a company like Kinetic and explain what you need. They can tell you what to buy and how to mount them. The key to getting a tactile sensation is that you want to mount the subwoofer on the riser. You can even get creative and build the sub into the riser, nothing wrong with that. Tactile transducers are nice too but if you mount them to a riser, you must use a lot of them and they need to be powerful. Further, you need to be sure the riser is fully decoupled from the walls and floor. This was exactly why I tied my riser to the floor and walls with rubber isolators. If it isn't physically decoupled (instead of just passively decoupled through a lack of attachment points) it will hit the wall and vibrate annoyingly. However, the problem I ran into is that I needed a lot more buttkickers than I owned to get a good tactile effect and further, I needed more than half an inch of articulation in every direction. The rubber isolators I used were inadequate for that. That is why I say, don't get fancy, it wasn't worth the effort.
 

Deuce

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Thanks Matthew - (Way more than I wanted to know LOL!)

But seriously I was clueless-never heard this discussed before, and I see now you are really addressing considerations on 1) keeping noise out and sound in the listening room and 2) create more of a tactile effect. Other than reducing the floor for sound noises, these floor enhancements dont offer much (ie to the quality and quantity of base SOUND) sounds like thats mostly a function of the subwoofer itself (design.size, power etc), placement , base traps and EQ right ? Am i missing anything ?

Is there any value in ELEVATING a sub off the floor for sound ??
 

Matthew J Poes

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Thanks Matthew - (Way more than I wanted to know LOL!)

But seriously I was clueless-never heard this discussed before, and I see now you are really addressing considerations on 1) keeping noise out and sound in the listening room and 2) create more of a tactile effect. Other than reducing the floor for sound noises, these floor enhancements dont offer much (ie to the quality and quantity of base SOUND) sounds like thats mostly a function of the subwoofer itself (design.size, power etc), placement , base traps and EQ right ? Am i missing anything ?

Is there any value in ELEVATING a sub off the floor for sound ??

Ah it isn't so simple I'm afraid, and technically, sound isolation and soundproofing DO play a role in sound quality. However, as to what makes the biggest effects on bass sound quality, I would order it like this:
  1. Room
    1. dimensions
    2. wall construction
  2. multiple subwoofers
  3. Subwoofer placement
  4. LF damping (bass traps)
  5. Integration/setup
  6. EQ
  7. Subwoofer quality
That's right, subwoofer quality is the lowest thing on my list of factors influencing our perception of LF sound quality. It isn't that it doesn't matter, it is that relative to the effects of other things, it matters the least. Unlike other speakers, a subwoofer will sound good, in fact, the same as any other subwoofer as long as it is operating fully within its linear range. Often when people talk about the huge sound quality differences they hear from one sub to the next, it's the greater output either overall or at specific frequencies. The reason for this is that the length of a full cycle at LF's is long enough to exceed the dimensions of a room, let alone a reflection point. As such, by the time the steady-state (the "direct" sound you hear) has reached your ears, it has already bounced off many walls, maybe multiple times. The steady-state sound, or direct sound that you hear, is no, in fact,t the direct sound from the subwoofer itself, but from the room. The room thus dominates the LF's we hear. While there are esoteric means to increase the amount of direct sound from the subwoofer you hear relative to the room, this is unimportant to this discussion.

What that means is you can't necessarily buy a cheap low output subwoofer and expect equal sound quality to a large high output subwoofer, but it does mean that two subwoofers with identical output will sound the same (and different in different rooms).

What matters most for sound quality in a home theater is the smoothness of the LF response and its maximum linear output. The room affects smoothness greatly so getting a good dimension ratio helps minimize the effects of the odes. The inclusion of at least 3 subwoofers further improves the smoothness and consistency of the response. Placement optimization helps with modes and SBIR.You get the picture right, all of this is different techniques to help smooth the response. Multiple subwoofers wont add 6dB of max output per doubling of subs, as you would get in a co-located ideal situation, but it does add more output. About 2-3dB isn't unreasonable. Still, if you want truely amazing output, you need truely amazing subwoofers, large drivers, high excursion, and big amps.
 

Deuce

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Great response Matthew-
So Matthew it sounds like you are an advocate of stacking subs if possible ?

Regarding. Multiple subs, I understand one should try to use an identical sub, or at least similar size driver and power/amplifier (and excursion, but thats not as transparent to pruchaser) BUT

would/could you expect positive results when you add a second sub that has a smaller driver/power, albeit silica quality/brand, or would this actually detract from the first larger/more powerful sub ?

Same question adding second sub that is different type (ie adding a ported sub to a sealed sub, or is that just more of a function of how low they go and still stay linear ?
 

Todd Anderson

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JVC NZ8
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ZeroSurge 2R15W x 2
OK TODD- OF THE SUBWOOFERS YOU HAVE TESTED, AND WILLING TO SPEDN MORE THAN $900, WHERE WOULD YOU GO NEXT IF YOU WANTED TO UPGRADE FROM THIS HSU ?

Loaded question! ;-)

Seriously, you can't go wrong with the SVS 4000 and Ultra Series... and for the budget-minded, the Monoprice Monolith subs are tough to beat. The biggest difference between the two being onboard correction and a superior exterior finish on the SVS models. Also, I've run Power Sound Audio subs in my home theater for years... they make excellent subs as well.

If you're looking for something more compact, the GoldenEar SuperSub series is ridiculously good... especially for music.
 

Deuce

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Todd- bravo- very very hard to find fault with those choices-your comments are fair and insightful and will save a number of people a lot of time (and money !) I would add one point -you pay a price , in several senses, for the Golden Ear size factor- you may not be able to place it exactly where you want in which case you may negate the value of small format visually depending on your room- (ie some larger subs may be less placement sensitive and thus easier to hide paradoxically whereas this smaller sub might have to be more in the open) and of course you pay top dollar for a sub that really doesn't compete at all with the competition below 25 HZ. (Including I suspect this Hsu ?)But it sure like size ratio must be among the highest in indiustrey- but i woudl also like to see a shootout between the smaller monolith (still hardly small) and Golden ear XXL-THat would be interesting as a huge price delta...
 
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