endtable top view.jpg
endtable top view.jpg

Negatron ii HT

This is my current setup in Mexico
Overview Gallery Discussion
ddude003 said:
You will have to look at the recommended screen size and UST PJ placement... There are also calculators on some vendor and reseller web sites that can give you some Ideas about screen size and placement along with and pj placement... Like: https://www.projectorscreen.com/projector-screen-calculators

In my instance, the top of the AV rack is 20 inches from the floor... The PJ is ~12 inches from the wall.. Fills a 103 inch screen... The PJ can go all the way up to a 120 inch screen and in my room that would be too large, covering virtually the entire wall...

I am still blown away with the image every time I turn it on...
Click to expand...
The only thing that has been holding me back is we have cats, and I am worried they will look at the lasers.
 
NBPK402 said:
The only thing that has been holding me back is we have cats, and I am worried they will look at the lasers.
Click to expand...
Most, if not all, of these UST PJs have some sort of detector which turns off or blocks the lasers when something is in the lasers path... I've leaned over my PJ several times by mistake and the thing turns off the lasers... I even had a bug crawling around in the little recess where the lens is and had me wondering why my PJ stopped working... It took me a few minutes to debug it... And here I thought only computers had bugs... :dumbcrazy:
Come to think of it, the PJ is a computer with an amazing GFX laser engine... Complete with bugs... :help:
 
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Update: My carpenter has one just about ready for use as a sample for the other 3 shelves and the top and bottom of the cabinet.I hope to have this part completed next week. Then the sides, front and rear can be measured and fit to the rack.

The shelf today looked excellent!
 
Update: rack should be ready this weekend.

We will also be starting on the subs by the end of the month. I have decided to go with a easier build than the Tubs HT ( too many complaints from others of leaky cabinets...not worth the problems for the extra time to make). The new subs will be Joseph Crowes...much better looking and more appropriate for a living room. I am planning on building it out of plywood and then skinning in Perota wood. I will need to order another pair of woofers for this build. The new mini meh horns will fit right on top and if we run a cabinet, it will flush on the front and sides to the sub.
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Well plans change! I found out with the woofers i purchased it will not be a good match with the Onken due to inefficiency of the drivers...so we are going to build 1 or 2 LilMikes F20 subs. I sent the plans to my Carpenter that is building the rack/cabinet, and we should have 1 sub in the next few weeks. F20 will be built out of 3/4" plywood and then covered externally with Perota veneer or wood.
 
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Update...my 3 5x5 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood arrived. Today my friend made some diffusion panels for the acoustic panels. I am debating on what color to paint the diffusion panels and whether or not to take 2 panels and flip one side to side and have a 3d look. I still need to sand them to clean up the cuts.
Any suggestions?

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I ordered 2 more sheets of Russian BB today. This will give us hopefully enough to build 2 subs at the same time....if not we will get a 4x8 sheet of plywood for the rack frames and whatever internal pieces on the subs that we still need wood for. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks we will have the subs home and start on making some big molds for clamping the horn pieces to shape and installing support braces
 
Yesterday I went my Carpenter to make sure everything is cut right and helped him to know exactly where each board for the horn internals goes. To make 2 F20 horns we used 5 sheets of BB 5X5 sheets. On Monday, I will return for test fitting the woofer in the first F20 sub, and the carpenter will glue up both subs. We have ordered the Perota wood, which will be cut down to 1/2" thick pieces, joined and cut to size for adding a 1/2" perota finish. My intention for the subs (for now at least) is to lay them on their sides with the ports firing forward and replace my rack with tv on top. The tv will rest on top of the subs at a inch or 2 lower than the current setup (depending on the feet I use). This will give a 10' wide platform for the tv to rest on instead of a 9' wide platform.

Once we get the new smaller wood horns, I will decide whether I want to keep the subs where they are or make a stand and place a center channel under it again. If I decide to run the subs under the new smaller MEHs...the height of the speakers will be 7' tall, and the MEHs will need to be angled downward. If I leave the subs in place...I will make custom stands to get them to ear level.

I still need to decide whether the sub mouths should be in the center next to each other or have the horn mouths closer to the left and right channel speakers.
 
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update: Today I completed my first Acoustic absorption/diffuser panel. The color is the charcoal metallic automotive paint we used on the rack support metal. I attached the panels with mirror standoffs, which pace it about 1" from the absorption panel. My F20 subs have been built for the test fit and the 1/2" wood finish is being made now. It is not the same wood as we were previously using, much harder wood, but will match nicely (I think). The new wood is twice as expensive, but 1/6th the price of the USA..I am hoping this weekend or sometime next week, I will have them both here. I might just put them where my front channels are and then put my MEHs on top of them on their sides since the F30s are almost the same dimension in one direction as the k402 horns are.
 

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NBPK402 said:
update: Today I completed my first Acoustic absorption/diffuser panel. The color is the charcoal metallic automotive paint we used on the rack support metal. I attached the panels with mirror standoffs, which pace it about 1" from the absorption panel. My F20 subs have been built for the test fit and the 1/2" wood finish is being made now. It is not the same wood as we were previously using, much harder wood, but will match nicely (I think). The new wood is twice as expensive, but 1/6th the price of the USA..I am hoping this weekend or sometime next week, I will have them both here. I might just put them where my front channels are and then put my MEHs on top of them on their sides since the F30s are almost the same dimension in one direction as the k402 horns are.
Click to expand...

Those look awesome!!!
 
Some very nice bass bins for your horns... Because some is good, more is better and too much is just right... Can your horns actually sit atop the bins? o_O
 
ddude003 said:
Some very nice bass bins for your horns... Because some is good, more is better and too much is just right... Can your horns actually sit atop the bins? o_O
Click to expand...
For the time being...I am thinking of laying them both on their sides and put my tv on top of them, but I could also angle them in the corners to where the 3' side pointed toward me and then I could put the current MEHs like the k402s are on the Jubilees. Now when the mini MEHs are made...I can put them on top with the 2' side facing me and in both scenarios I would angle the horns downward toward the mlp. I am planning on trying the MEHs and Mini MEHs without a cabinet to see how I like them. When I first got the MEHs done...I tried them cabinetless, but I wanted a bit more bass...now I will have enough bass from the subs and I think the cabinetless bass from the MEHs might work out nicely.
 
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What?... Just happen to have those Jubilees hanging around? Never mind, I get what your saying...
 
Pfft... Your kit doesn't look like a poor mans anything... I just thought stacking your horns atop your new bins would get the horns up to about ear hight... :bigsmile:
 
ddude003 said:
Pfft... Your kit doesn't look like a poor mans anything... I just thought stacking your horns atop your new bins would get the horns up to about ear hight... :bigsmile:
Click to expand...
My speakers and cabinet are where I save money. For 2 subs the labor, Baltic Birch Plywood and 1/2" Mesquite cost me ...about $1200 plus the woofers. The Mesquite in the USA would be $60 per sqft. We have 90sqft of Mesquite. That is one of the reasons I am building my wood projects here.I paid $1700 for 2 brand new k402 horns and 2 used ones, and then imported them.

If I was to put the subs on their sides and put them in the corners, with the k402 horns on their sides...yes the horns would be at ear level.
 
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I can't wait to see the finish on those Mesquite covered bins... Wow, just WOW...
 
ddude003 said:
I can't wait to see the finish on those Mesquite covered bins... Wow, just WOW...
Click to expand...
I have seen the Mesquite slab tables and had started thinking about using Mesquite a couple of years ago, but it was too expensive. Now that I have a better carpenter who has connections, I finally said yes! Of course the fact that the Parota has become unattainable anymore (for the good pieces) was the final reason. I also cannot wait to get the projects home.
 
Update...the F20 subs are all glued up and the inside of the cabinet is painted black. The Mesquite will be going on starting Monday. The carpenter will also be making black magnetic grills...so our cats do not go inside the mouth of the sub. I hope to have them by next weekend.
Then the carpenter will start on the new TV stand and finish the cabinet.
 
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Oh boy... this going to be fun to see!
 
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