Vinyl Cleaning Methods - How do you clean your vinyl?

[Sonnie Parker]

I have used the very simple Spin Clean to clean my records for years, and I've always thought it did an adequate job of cleaning them. I never gave it much thought, but I've always had relatively inexpensive turntables and a lot of records that I didn't take care of early on in life (late 70s and the 80s mostly). I dabbled in vinyl back in 2012 but really didn't have the room for it at the time. Recently, we've set up a dedicated vinyl room and getting back into vinyl listening again.

I decided to look into the various cleaning systems. Some of them are rather expensive ultrasonic machines, but for some reason, I just didn't think they were enough. Only the uber-expensive models dry the record, and it's blow drying instead of vacuuming. I'm not sure, but I feel like vacuuming is better. Anyway... I came up with a method that works for me. I use the KirmussAudio KA-RC-1 Ultrasonic machine, but I don't go all out on the repetitive cleaning unless it's a really old record. It just appeared to be set up a little better than the other ultrasonic machines and has more even cavitation. I was also able to scoop up an unused open-box unit at a very nice discount. Then I caught the Record Doctor X on sale and use it to vacuum dry the records. It is still more than I wanted to spend at around $1350-1400, but I do have a little more peace of mind about my records now.

After cleaning, I place them in a MoFi inner sleeve.

How do you clean your records? What is your cleaning method?

 

[QuinnG]

I carefully use a microfiber cloth, though most of my vinyl is new and doesn't necessarily require too much extra care.

 

[Mike Purrez]

I do the same, I have a Kirmiss and 2nd vacuum machine..

 

[Asere]

I use a gel bubble stylus cleaner and a velvet brush for the LP with a brush stylus cleaner. I like using the brush on the stylus more than the gel.

 

[looney]

IF I do it: first, use soapy water (dishwasher works fine) with a large cotton swab, circular motions, no pressure. Then rinse with fresh water. Then thoroughly rinse with distilled water. Let it dry on its own, no fan or hairdryer. Works for me since ... ever.

 

[Don Moore]

Okki Nokki record machine. I've used it for ten years and it's flawless!

 

[protools]

Same here, soapy water and rinse.

 

[SergeAuckland]

All LPs, whether new or bought used get cleaned with a Moth vacuum record cleaning machine. Used, because they have 40 years of dirt to get rid of, and new, because of the mould release agents and anyway, the fine dust that comes off the paper sleeves is an annoyance.

Then, the freshly cleaned record gets put into a new plastic Nagaoka-type sleeve, then in the normal inner sleeve, then the outer cover, and if I have one, a clear PVC outer sleeve.

On playing, I go over the LP with a carbon-fibre brush, and perhaps every few years, repeat the Vacuum cleaning, but that's rarely needed.

As my turntables both have stylus illuminators, any dust particles shine out and I'm constantly surprised by the amount of surface dust that gets onto an LP, even one freshly off the RCM.

One consequence of my LP cleaning regime is that I hardly ever get any dust on the stylus, although those still get a dab of magic sponge at the end of each listening session.

S.

 

[PGS4038]

I used "Soundguard" on my LPs when they were new.. Its since been banned from sale,, but I still have a supply.. I marked the covers with SG and set the bias on the pickup arm with a test disc, also sounguarded. I don't buy new vinyl as I prefer clarity to the vinyl sound, so hires flac or wav downloads are my source material of choice.

 

[Sergio Hernandez]

I first use a brush to pull any superficial dust, then I use a Okki Nokki record cleaning machine. Finally follow up with Gruv Glide spray.

 

[gasper0007fr]

brosse antistatique et machine DIY moteur de tourne broche + bac ultrason

 

[f1eng]

I have kept my LPs pristine for 50 years and just dust then with a carbon fibre brush lightly applied to the rotating record just before playing.

 

[SE-Noises]

I use "disco-antistat" by Knosti as well as an record cleaning arm (similar to the one by SPINCARE

 

[drahtwurst]

vinyl i played in hostile environments as dj i wiped them with a microfiber cloth + clean alcohol when the where new. it changed the vinyl sound a bit towards more "stable" and the vinyl would not wear out as fast.
washing with light dishwasher soap water + microfiber cloth, rinse with osmosis water oder other clean water. no stains.

 

[JimB]

I used a Kirmuss system for a couple years. Takes a lot of time. For me, not viable for single record cleaning. Tried Degritter II a few months ago and sold Kirmuss. New records get a 10 min clean in Degritter II. Previously cleaned records get a 3 minute clean before playing. Easy, works perfectly, and as effective as Kirmuss for me. I find myself buying more records because I can just clean and play without holding 6 to 9 records to make time with Kirmuss more efficient. Degritter is just more practical for me.

 

[Amano]

in the 80s I bought a simple cleaning machine, which works with destilled water and some detergent (a drop). The records may dry later in a drain board... important fact: do not use too much detergent, just a drop. and let the vinyl disc rotate in tha washing

machine for at least 2 minutes. It takes some time to wash out the dirt from the groove. some discs still had too much noise after the first washing process, so repeated the procedure and let it sit in the water for some more minutes helped to get rid of track noise...Discs that had been used with Lenco clean wet tracking could be reproduce without Lenco clean after washing...without any noise.

you find such disc washing machines at ebay...

 

[Sonnie Parker]

I do the same, I have a Kirmiss and 2nd vacuum machine..

Do you do the full Kirmiss routine on every record?

Okki Nokki record machine. I've used it for ten years and it's flawless!

I tried to find one of these but never could. I emailed the company some time ago, but they haven't responded.

All LPs, whether new or bought used get cleaned with a Moth vacuum record cleaning machine. Used, because they have 40 years of dirt to get rid of, and new, because of the mould release agents and anyway, the fine dust that comes off the paper sleeves is an annoyance.

Then, the freshly cleaned record gets put into a new plastic Nagaoka-type sleeve, then in the normal inner sleeve, then the outer cover, and if I have one, a clear PVC outer sleeve.

On playing, I go over the LP with a carbon-fibre brush, and perhaps every few years, repeat the Vacuum cleaning, but that's rarely needed.

As my turntables both have stylus illuminators, any dust particles shine out and I'm constantly surprised by the amount of surface dust that gets onto an LP, even one freshly off the RCM.

One consequence of my LP cleaning regime is that I hardly ever get any dust on the stylus, although those still get a dab of magic sponge at the end of each listening session.

S.

What kind of stylus illuminator do you have? That is something I've never tried.

And magic sponge?

 

[Sonnie Parker]

I used a Kirmuss system for a couple years. Takes a lot of time. For me, not viable for single record cleaning. Tried Degritter II a few months ago and sold Kirmuss. New records get a 10 min clean in Degritter II. Previously cleaned records get a 3 minute clean before playing. Easy, works perfectly, and as effective as Kirmuss for me. I find myself buying more records because I can just clean and play without holding 6 to 9 records to make time with Kirmuss more efficient. Degritter is just more practical for me.

Yep... the time constraint is a solid factor for many vinyl enthusiasts, especially those who own and buy a lot of records.

 

[Automatric]

I've been using the Project E2 machine for the past 4 years or so which has a vacuum arm.
I make my own fluid up from distilled water / Isopropy alcohol / dishwasher rinse aid.
Works well for me, especially when there's just one LP to clean

 

[miguelito]

Here’s how I clean my vinyl records:

Step 1- Spinclean 1:
- 800 ml distilled water
- 20 ml Ethanol (2.5% concentration)
- 4 drops Tergikleen (Tergitol)
This step is ONLY used if the record has any visible dirt on it. I usually skip this step for new records.
Couple of full turns in each direction.
After raising the record and letting it drip out into the Spinclean it goes directly into Step 2 (NO drying of any sort)

Step 2- Spinclean 2 (this is a separate Spinclean unit from the above):
- 800 ml distilled water
- 20 ml Isopropyl Alcohol (2.5% concentration)
- 10 ml Propylene Glycol
Couple of full turns in each direction.
After raising the record and letting it drip out into the Spinclean it goes directly into Step 3 (NO drying of any sort)

Step 3- Degritter:
- 1.5 l distilled water
- 20 ml Isopropyl Alcohol (1.3%)
Usually run the Heavy cycle with drying.

Comments:
- I use high purity Ethanol, Isopropyl, and Propylene Glycol (Propylene Glycol is used in the Kirmuss spray).
- Some might question the use of Ethanol - in this concentration it is safe to use on PVC (according to PVC chemical compatibility info). Also, Clearaudio recommends Ethanol, and the guy running the "Perfect Vinyl Forever" cleaning service also uses Ethanol, I think I heard in one of his interviews on Youtube.
- Steps 1 & 2 are really very quick so they don't add a meaningful amount of effort and they make a very big difference in the net result.
- After cleaning the record goes into a brand-new inner sleeve (I like the MoFis but I think most are good).
- My Degritter is the mk 1 version. I use the firmware previous to the last as the last one includes a pre-wash cycle that I don't want, and I cannot disable it in the mk 1 Degritter (you can in the mk 2).

People have asked me: You have the Degritter - Why use the Spincleans? Two reasons:
1- Step 2 puts Propylene Glycol (not a surfactant but a wetting agent) onto the record - this helps the ultrasonic step by allowing the bursting bubbles to go deeper - which is why Kirmuss uses this.
2- The ultrasonic machine is great at getting into the groove but not so great about large visible dirt and oils like fingerprints. If you had a muddy car, would you clean it with a polishing cloth and wax? No, you would wash it with water, detergent, and a brush first, then you would apply wax and polish it. Same holds true for records.

 

[BobiM]

I used to use a Project VC-E2 wet cleaner. It was well built and did the job reasonably well but was slow and noisy. I now use a Hummin Guru ultra sonic cleaner, which is brilliant for this job. It does both sides at once and you can leave it to get on with the job. Records are spotless.

 

[MatthewDougherty]

I got into this research problem when I was transferring a song from 78. Recorded in 1933, the song, Blue Danube by the Vienna Philharmonic, was later re-issued by various publishing companies onto 33, 45, & CD; which I transferred into Adobe Audition for comparison. For 78, 33, & 45, I inspected the records under a microscope, before and after cleaning.

I tried various methods to get the records as clean as possible before transfer, and was frustrated for months. The method I settled on was multi-pass: light soap, alcohol, vinegar, & microfiber, then repeat to get any obvious gunk off; the most important and the final step being running tap water over the record. Microfiber is good, but static electricity was the big problem, either dust in the air or just moving dirt around the record. No matter what method I used, static electricity left stuff on the record.

Running tap water over the record eliminated the static electricity and removed remaining particles, producing almost no particles on the record. For 78, because it is shellac, most solvents must be avoided; there are some do's and don't published in those user groups. Does it make much difference in audio quality? Can't say, probably not. But since I was doing a transfer, I assumed no particles was the best position to be be in.

Another comparison was belt vs direct drive turntables. The various belt turntables would transfer this 9 minute song +/- 2 seconds. The direct drives would get the 23,000,000 samples within +/- 100 samples; making it amendable to signal averaging

There was a whole another rabbit hole on figuring out musical pitch. In 1933, A440 did not exist as a standard until ISO standard #16 in the 1950's; every symphony conductor has a personal choice as to what frequency A4 is going to be; and the 60hz & 50hz standards (and related accuracies) did not happen until 1972 so figure the motor speeds are like throwing darts blindfolded, due to voltage and frequency variability. Also, BBC & EMI would intentionally vary the AC frequency as a way to fingerprint the location of broadcast & recording. By the time direct drive turntables and CDs came around most of these precision problems were significantly reduced.

 

[Trevor]

I still use a manual method. I keep them in paper sleeves, never touch the playing surface, wipe them with a carbon fibre brush, and play them with the turntable cover down. Fifty years ago I used a Zerostat ionizing gun after wiping, but gave that up after a few years.

 

[VinceHoffman]

After decades of using effective but deafening and labor intensive vacuum based RCMs (first Nitty Gritty, and later a VPI), during Covid I switched to Ultrasonic cleaning. I briefly owned a Kirmuss but found his cleaning regimen just as time consuming as the best practice use of the prior vacuum RCMs. So I bit the bullet, promptly resold the Kirmuss and bought a Degritter that has largely automated the record cleaning process. The Degritter has been worth every penny- Much more time spent listening to vinyl vs cleaning it!

Here is a pic of my CD repair and record cleaning bench.

Right- A Stable 33.33 T-8000 Transit Platter plunked on a stainless pizza pan lined with a microfiber cloth.
Center- A Degriiter RCM with two tanks, one tank labled Wash and the other Rinse, and both filled with distilled water.
Left- A Disc-Go-Devil CD resurfacing machine.

My record cleaning process for any new-to-me LP entering my collection is as follows:

1) I begin with a wet pre-scrub of both sides using the Transit Platter, a wet brush, and a diluted Turgitol solution.
2) As I've already applied the Turgitol cleaning solution during the wet pre-scrub, I do not use an additional cleaning solution in my distilled water Degritter Wash cycle tank. For the wash cycle I run a heavy cycle clean with no drying.
3) Then I switch out the Wash tank for my secondary Degritter Rinse tank and run a second heavy cycle but this time adding 3 minutes of dry time.
4) When the scrub, wash, rinse, and dry is complete, the clean LP goes into a fresh Vinylstoragesolutions.ca Premium Plus Master Inner Sleeve and the record jacket goes into a Vinylstoragesolutions.ca clear protective outer sleeve.

 

[Sonnie Parker]

Here’s how I clean my vinyl records:

Step 1- Spinclean 1:
- 800 ml distilled water
- 20 ml Ethanol (2.5% concentration)
- 4 drops Tergikleen (Tergitol)
This step is ONLY used if the record has any visible dirt on it. I usually skip this step for new records.
Couple of full turns in each direction.
After raising the record and letting it drip out into the Spinclean it goes directly into Step 2 (NO drying of any sort)

Step 2- Spinclean 2 (this is a separate Spinclean unit from the above):
- 800 ml distilled water
- 20 ml Isopropyl Alcohol (2.5% concentration)
- 10 ml Propylene Glycol
Couple of full turns in each direction.
After raising the record and letting it drip out into the Spinclean it goes directly into Step 3 (NO drying of any sort)

Step 3- Degritter:
- 1.5 l distilled water
- 20 ml Isopropyl Alcohol (1.3%)
Usually run the Heavy cycle with drying.

Comments:
- I use high purity Ethanol, Isopropyl, and Propylene Glycol (Propylene Glycol is used in the Kirmuss spray).
- Some might question the use of Ethanol - in this concentration it is safe to use on PVC (according to PVC chemical compatibility info). Also, Clearaudio recommends Ethanol, and the person running the "Perfect Vinyl Forever" cleaning service also uses Ethanol, I think I heard in one of his interviews on Youtube.
- Steps 1 & 2 are really very quick so they don't add a meaningful amount of effort and they make a very big difference in the net result.
- After cleaning the record goes into a brand-new inner sleeve (I like the MoFis but I think most are good).
- My Degritter is the mk 1 version. I use the firmware previous to the last as the last one includes a pre-wash cycle that I don't want, and I cannot disable it in the mk 1 Degritter (you can in the mk 2).

People have asked me: You have the Degritter - Why use the Spincleans? Two reasons:
1- Step 2 puts Propylene Glycol (not a surfactant but a wetting agent) onto the record - this helps the ultrasonic step by allowing the bursting bubbles to go deeper - which is why Kirmuss uses this.
2- The ultrasonic machine is great at getting into the groove but not so great about large visible dirt and oils like fingerprints. If you had a muddy car, would you clean it with a polishing cloth and wax? No, you would wash it with water, detergent, and a brush first, then you would apply wax and polish it. Same holds true for records.

Yeah, when I first read "Ethanol," I was like, "Whoa, Nellie," but apparently, it is safe. Obviously, you've done your homework. Nice setup.